There be as good fish in the sea as ever yet were caught.

- Proverb.

THE impression that fish, because they are rich in phosphorus, are particularly good food for brain workers, is not necessarily true. The fact that they are easily digested, especially the white-fleshed kinds, may partially account for this reputation. Coming into their prime, as they do, at the end of winter when the system is meat-weary, and bringing with them the refreshing flavor of the sea, fish afford a pleasant and welcome change of diet.

Fresh fish have firm flesh, bright eyes and gills, and do not have an offensive odor. In stale fish there is danger of ptomaine poisoning. This danger is greatest in fish which have been preserved frozen, and have been kept for some time after thawing.

If fish have not been cleaned when they come from the market, clean them immediately. Wash, wipe, and sprinkle with salt. If placed in the refrigerator, slip the plate into a paper bag to keep the odor from other food; or set the plate on a pan of ice and keep it in the cellar.

Frozen fish should be soaked in cold water until thawed, and then removed. Soak salt fish in fresh water, skin side up, to draw out the salt.

White-fleshed fish, such as shad, blue-fish, mackerel, and salmon, have fat distributed more or less throughout the body, and are seldom fried. They are usually baked, broiled or planked.

Of the Great Lakes fish, white-fish are the finest. They are cooked in various ways, but are often planked. Of other fresh water fish, trout, black bass, and catfish are the best known.

Codfish, haddock, and halibut may be found in market the year around, but are not really good in June, July, August and September. Flounders are at their best in May. Shad are best in April and May, and are in season only in the spring and early summer. Blue-fish come in summer and early autumn.

Of bivalves (shell-fish), oysters and scallops are winter fish; clams are year around, being much used in summer when oysters are out of season. Of crustaceans (crust-fish), lobsters are to be found in market throughout the year, but are best from June to September. Crabs also are best in summer. Soft-shell crabs are so called because they have shed their hard shells, and have been caught before their new shells harden.