This section is from the book "Three Meals A Day", by Maud C. Cooke. Also available from Amazon: Three Meals a Day.
The upper part and the stalks of good mushrooms are white; as they increase in size the under part gradually opens and shows a fringe surface of a fine salmon color, which, as the mushroom gains in size, turns a dark brown. The upper surface parts easily from the edge and middle and has a pleasant smell. If a little salt be sprinkled on the under side of a mushroom, and it should turn yellow, reject it at once as poisonous; if black they are wholesome.
Trim and rub clean with a flannel dipped in salt; to ½ pint of large button mushrooms put 2 table-spoonfuls of butter in a pan; melt; put in the mushrooms, ½ tea-spoonful of salt, ½ as much pepper and 1 blade of mace pounded; stew till the mushrooms are tender, then serve on a very hot dish.
Clean the mushrooms by wiping them with a piece of flannel dipped in salt. Cut off a portion of the stalk and peel the tops; broil them over a clear fire; turn them and arrange on a hot dish; put a small piece of butter on each mushroom, season with pepper and salt and squeeze over them a few drops of lemon juice; place the dish before the fire; when the butter is melted serve very quickly. Moderately sized flaps are better than buttons for broiling; the latter are for stewing.
Flatten and peel, and lay in a pie tin with a piece of butter on each one; pepper and salt lightly and bake twenty minutes in a moderate oven. Heap lightly on a hot dish and pour the gravy over all.
Cut off the stem, peel the top of the mushroom, rinse in cold water and fry in a, little butter, covering the bottom of the pan. They will yield con-siderable gravy. Cook three or four minutes, place them over the top of hot broiled steak with the gravy.
Any time after the root is fully grown, prepare by scraping, and immediately drop in cold water to prevent turning black. Cut in ¼ inch slices and boil in sufficient water to cover. Thirty minutes will be enough. Then add a cupful of cream or milk with a tablespoonful of flour stirred in smoothly. Do not turn off the water; season highly with pepper, butter and salt, and serve as other oysters. A small piece of codfish boiled with it is sometimes considered an improvement. Or parboil and dip the slices in egg and then in bread-crumbs and fry in butter.
 
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