This section is from the book "Every Day Meals", by Mary Hooper. See also: Larousse Gastronomique.
Very few cooks in these days make the gelatine for jellies of calves' feet, the process being both tedious and expensive. French leaf gelatine has of late been used, and is excellent; but the difficulty is to have the strength always the same. Nelson's gelatine may be relied on for purity and uniformity of quality, and will produce a bright jelly without any peculiar flavour of its own. The directions given with this gelatine are good, but in practice it has been found some additional details are necessary.
It is desirable, if possible, to soak the gelatine at least an hour, before using it, as it dissolves much more easily when this is done. Put one ounce of gelatine (Nelson's) to soak in half a pint of cold water, with the finely shred peel of two lemons. When it has soaked for an hour, put it into a stewpan with half a pint of boiling water, and stir over the fire until dissolved. Put half a pound of sugar, and when melted, add another half pint of liquid, which should include the juice of the two lemons and water only, if the jelly is to be plain lemon; but if of wine, sherry, good Marsala, or raisin wine, instead of water. Wash the shells of two eggs, and beat them up with the whites, stir them briskly into the jelly, which place over the fire, and let it come very slowly to boiling point, then continue simmering for five minutes. Take a cup and put the white of eggs from the surface of the jelly, gently into the bag, as this acts as a filter, then put a cupful of the jelly in slowly, and let it run through, continuing this until all is used. It should now be clear; but if it is not, keep warm that which has run through the bag, and once more pass it through. If the jelly is flavoured with wine, when all has run through, add to it a wineglassful of brown brandy, as this will it give a rich, golden tint. If the weather is cold, the given quantity of gelatine will bear a little more liquid, and will be stiff enough to turn out. Moulds of tin or copper are best for jellies, because they require to be dipped in tepid water before turning out, and the thickness of earthenware moulds makes it difficult to determine when the warmth is sufficient or not too much. Have ready a bowl or bucket of water, in which you can dip the mould just in for a second, taking care the water is only tepid - that is to say - not more than 80°. Now wipe the mould, loosen the edges of the jelly, taking care not to break them, with the end of a teaspoon, reverse the mould gently on a glass dish, let it stand a minute, then take it off, and the jelly should be perfect in shape, and as clear as crystal.
To make a jelly ornamented with fruit, have some very clear lemon jelly, of which put in the mould enough to cover it, about an inch deep. Let this stand until beginning to set, arrange in it strawberries, grapes, cherries, or any other bright fruit you wish, then, very gently with a spoon, cover them with the jelly, cold, but not set. Let this again stand until beginning to set, put in more fruit, then jelly, and so on until the mould is set.
A pretty effect is produced by the mixture of creams and jelly : it is managed in the same way as the above, taking care to have each layer so nearly set, that the cream cannot run into the jelly.
Great care should be taken in washing and keeping jelly bags in a suitable place, for if not scrupulously clean, they impart to jellies that peculiar flannel-like flavour, which destroys its delicacy. When done with, empty the bag of its refuse contents, turn it inside out, and at once put it into boiling water, which will clear it. Allow it to pass through two or three very hot waters, then squeeze it and when thoroughly dried - in the air if possible - wrap it in clean paper, and keep in a dry place. Before using, always wring the bag through boiling water, allowing it to get nearly dry before pouring the jelly through it. Kent's registered jelly strainer is an admirable invention, keeping the jelly warm, and enabling it to run through without being placed near the fire. Any waste of the jelly is also avoided by its use, as well as risk of dust or other mishaps.
Soak an ounce of Nelson's gelatine in half a pint of cold water, boil it until dissolved, add a bottle of good vin ordinaire, a pot of red currant jelly, and threequarters of a pound of sugar, stir over the fire until all dissolved. Beat the whites of three eggs and the shells, stir them briskly into the jelly, let it continue boiling for two minutes, take it off the fire, and when it has stood for two minutes, pass it through the bag. The jelly should be perfectly clear, and of a fine red.
 
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