This section is from the book "Every Day Meals", by Mary Hooper. See also: Larousse Gastronomique.
Wash and break up into very small pieces two pounds of the scrag end of a neck of mutton, put it on to boil in a gallon of water with a tablespoonful of salt. As soon as it boils take off any scum which has risen, and put into the pot a pound of onions, four large turnips, two carrots, and if convenient a couple of leeks. When the broth has boiled for an hour add a small stick of celery, boil for another hour, strain, remove any fat, add pepper and salt to taste, pour the broth on to a quarter of a pound of Italian paste, or vermicelli, previously boiled, and put into the soup tureen. Serve chopped and scalded parsley separately.
Great care is necessary in choosing pork. In the London market it is sometimes difficult to get fine full-grown meat, the butchers preferring to sell what they call "dairy pork." Unless of a very fine quality and well fed, this class of meat is greasy and indigestible, and is also wasteful. Pork known as hog meat is for every reason to be preferred. It is prepared for towns at the farms, the fat being removed, and only the prime joints sent to the butchers. These have fine white fat, the lean being a clear, pinkish white, well veined with delicate streaks of fat, and on a slight pressure with the finger yielding a deep indentation. The fore loin of pork, the bladebone having been removed, is the most profitable for family use, and it is an economy to buy the whole, using the best end for roasting, the chump for sausages, forcemeat, or curries. The flavour of sage and onion with pork is objectionable to some persons, but minced shalot with sage is generally acceptable, because milder and more digestible. With two teaspoonfuls of dried and sifted sage mix one tea-spoonful of finely minced shalot, two teaspoonfuls of salt, and one of black pepper. Put some of this mixture between each of the bones, and rub a little on the outside of the meat. Do this if possible the day before cooking it. Pork requires to be well done and to be roasted quickly.
Quarter and pare good cooking apples, put them in a stew-pan with a little water, cover close, and stew the apples until they will pulp. If the apples are of a hard kind and will not break up, rub them through a coarse sieve. Put the pulp back into the stewpan; if it is too liquid stir it over the fire until dry enough, then add raw sugar to taste, half a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit is usually sufficient. Stir the sauce over the fire until well mixed, smooth, and dry. Some persons like a little mustard and a pinch of salt added to the sauce at the same time as the sugar.
Butter a pint and a half tart dish, lay in it a layer of light bread cut thin, on this sprinkle a portion of two ounces of shred suet, and of one ounce of lemon candy peel chopped very fine. Fill the dish lightly with layers of bread, sprinkling over each a little of the suet and peel. Boil a pint of milk with two ounces of sugar, pour it on two eggs beaten for a minute, and add it to the pudding just before putting it into the oven; a little extract of lemon or shred lemon peel may be added to the custard. Bake the pudding in a very slow oven for an hour.
 
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