This section is from the book "Every Day Meals", by Mary Hooper. See also: Larousse Gastronomique.
The gratifying reception which has been accorded to my books on cookery, and especially to "Little Dinners," has induced me to prepare another handbook, embracing a large number of original recipes which could not be included in the plan of that book. These recipes have all been carefully prepared by me for the use of the Cookery Classes in the Crystal Palace School of Art, Science, and Literature. My aim has been to give clear and simple directions, which may be successfully followed by the most inexperienced cook, and at the same time to show how good results may be obtained by the exercise of economy.
Housekeepers are so well acquainted with the difficulty of providing a varied menu for early breakfasts, that it is hoped the first part of this book may be especially acceptable to them. There are a number of obstacles in the way of arranging nourishing and suitable breakfasts; but when we consider that it is of the first necessity for those members of a family who have to leave home early in the morning, to do so physically fortified against the fatigues of an anxious day, we shall see that it is as important to provide a nourishing suitable breakfast as a good dinner. The man of business who swallows in haste a breakfast of the accepted national type, which, although sufficiently expensive, is both innutritious and unattractive, and who has no time during the day to supplement this unsatisfactory meal by luncheon, runs great risk of ruining his health. There can be no doubt that many lives now sacrificed to the pressure of the times would be saved, or at least prolonged, were the vital powers more duly sustained during the early part of the day by a good and suitable breakfast.
There is but little variety in the dishes used for breakfast in the majority of English families. "Bacon and eggs again, my dear," sighed a discontented husband; "Well, what can I do?" answered the anxious wife, "you shall have eggs and bacon by way of change to-morrow." It is certain that for the same cost as the eggs and bacon sufficient variety could be secured, for fresh eggs in town are always costly, and bacon is also expensive, a great portion of it running to fat, and by the ordinary mode of cooking it is too often rendered hard and indigestible. The same may be said of kidneys, which are gradually rising to the price of unapproachable delicacies. When hardened in cooking, as they often are, they are both wasteful and innutritious, but one kidney, cooked as directed for "kidneys sautes," will go as far in every sense as two dressed in the ordinary way: an example, if one were needed, of the economy of well-prepared food.
Sausages have from time immemorial found favour as a breakfast dish. But that any one should be able to eat those sold in shops after the revelations respecting them, and the great risk there is of getting; diseased meat in so disguised a form, is indeed surprising. There is no difficulty whatever in making sausages at home, a mincing machine will last a lifetime, and be so useful for a variety of purposes that no family should be with- out one. Some well-tried recipes for making sausages of all kinds are given, and thus prepared are useful and relishing articles of diet.
Dried fish of various kinds is much in vogue, and is useful by way of appetiser; but it does not possess the valuable nutritive qualities of the fresh fish, and is not suited to delicate digestions.
Chops and steaks are excellent in their way, but are costly, and from one cause or another often fail to tempt the appetite in the morning. "Then what are we to have?" cries the perplexed housewife, "everything nice is so expensive, and it is most difficult to make varied and suitable dishes for breakfast." To this we must reply that, although the cost of provisions is very great at the present time, and the general cost of living most serious for small incomes, the real difficulty lies not so much in the expense as in the want of skill in making the most of things, and also in the want of forethought and management. No cooking can be clone without taking time and trouble, and it is because our French neighbours spare neither the one nor the other in the exercise of the culinary art, that they so greatly excel in it. If, as the celebrated chef said of his sauce, breakfast "is prepared with brains," it need never be an expensive meal; and if thought is taken to-day for tomorrow's breakfast, it may be got up with but little expense, at an early hour, and be both suitable and economical.
A few menus have been arranged for simple every-day breakfasts, all of which can without difficulty be served at an early hour. These menus may serve as models for others, for which a number of supplementary recipes will be found elsewhere in the book, under the head of "Little Dishes".
The breakfasts of children, school-boys and girls, which should be as varied as is consistent with simplicity, are often unduly restricted, and bread and butter, not because it is the least expensive, but because it is the least trouble, is held to be the proper thing to satisfy the needs and appetites of growing children. Attempts have been made by dieticians to induce English people to use oatmeal more freely. But these efforts have met with but partial success, owing to the inferior character of the meal usually sold, and to the still more inferior mode in which it is cooked. Properly prepared porridge is not only highly nutritious, but a generally acceptable form of diet, and if accustomed to it from infancy, there are very few children who will not eat it. It may be taken as a general rule that when children manifest a dislike to oatmeal porridge it is on account of its being badly prepared. By far too much meal is used by English cooks, and they do not boil it long enough to render porridge easy of digestion. The preparations of Italian wheat - the grano duro - which is different from Indian corn, and possesses a high degree of nourishment, semolina, macaroni, and similar pastes, do not find the favour with us which they deserve. People dislike these things as they do oatmeal, because they are not properly prepared for table. Here, again, is a serious loss to the national dietary from the indifferent style of our cookery.
The important question of reducing the quantity of animal food, having due regard to the necessity of maintaining a high standard of health and strength in the community at large, has been anxiously considered. There can be no doubt that it is desirable from every point of view to make such additions to the plain joint of the family fare as will supply the requisite nourishment, and tend at the same time to diminish the need for the large proportion of animal diet now used. Such useful additions to the family mid-day meal are soup and broth, such as appear on every Continental table. Is it not strange that soup, which is held by our neighbours to duly prepare the stomach for its more onerous duties, and to assist in assimilating the heavier food, should be thought by us to have the directly opposite effect? Perhaps the most common objection to soup by the English people is, that it spoils the appetite; but if the appetite is satisfied with suitable food, this ought to be regarded as an advantage. Then another objection is, that soup is expensive, and that it is troublesome to make it. The recipes and directions which are given under this head will, it is hoped, enable housekeepers to provide this valuable addition to the family fare with but little expense and trouble.
With the view of rendering this book generally useful, a series of menus for family dinners, such as are suitable for the children and for family luncheons, has been arranged. These comprise such dishes as come under the head of "plain cookery," and every hint which may render the recipes useful to the inexperienced housekeeper has been given.
In most families, from time to time, there are occasions when it is necessary to serve luncheons of ceremony, suppers, or additional delicacies. To meet these requirements there are given a number of recipes, both for sweet and savoury dishes, all prepared with regard to economy, and a great proportion of them by new and easy methods. The cold dishes under this head will also be for the most part suitable for high tea, and the hot dishes will be found light and digestible enough to serve for little suppers.
My former success encourages me to hope that this new book, on which my best efforts have been expended, will be widely useful. My recompense will be great if it prove a real help to those who, in these difficult times, are seeking to raise the standard of housewifely perfection, and by their own example to show that the best work a woman can do is that in the home, and for the well-being of the family.
MARY HOOPER.
 
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