" Not all on books their criticism waste, The genius of a dish some justly taste, And eat their way to fame."

- Young.

The chafing-dish, like the bicycle, has pushed itself into the best society, and it is quite evident it has come to stay. Many years before it became fashionable it was here as the friend of the Bohemian and impecunious. It was only a cheap metal affair then, seeking its abiding-place in out-of-the-way corners ; but now it is resplendent in silver and gold, and en evidence on the smartest occasion. When it first makes its appearance in the menage it is quite as tricky as its friend the bicycle, and participates in inflicting many an unsavory mess upon unsuspecting victims. With a little patience and practice, however, it becomes a dainty accessory to my lady's charms, and many a manly heart has grown warm and tender under its gentle auspices. Nevertheless, to be practical, there should be a reason for introducing it into good society. As every one of the following recipes can be made just as well over any fire, the only excuse for its appearance should be a complete knowledge on the part of the manipulator of the recipes to be used, all accessories in readiness, and a circle of intimate friends with appreciative appetites. There are a few things to remember : To have the lamp well filled and in good working order ; to place the standard of the chafing-dish on a tray a little larger than the dish to protect the table from fire and boiling water.

Use the hot-water pan only when the preparation requires steaming or stewing, or to keep it from burning while waiting for other ingredients or toast.

To cook quickly, use only the blazer and have it hot before you begin. Have a handle on the hot-water pan as well as on the blazer. Use a chafing-dish spoon which is of silver or metal, with a wooden or ivory handle. .Have an extra fork and teaspoon to try with, if you are not sure of your seasoning, and a small napkin.

Before beginning to cook see that the table is well supplied with knives, forks, and napkins for each guest, and that all the ingredients needed are prepared and neatly arranged around your tray ; to wait for one ingredient sometimes means the ruination of the whole dish. Only one's intimates should be bidden to share the joys of a chafing-dish, and never more than ten at a time. The chafing-dish has not yet been made that will appease the appetite of more.

The chafing-dish came as a fancy, and it is staying as a fact-but few fashionable fads have been of so much benefit to the world. The desire to become an

adept with the chafing-dish has unconsciously Jed many a novice, step by step, into the mysteries of the art of cooking, consequently our most fashionable schools at present are the schools of cookery.