Evening Collations 69

" This night he makes a supper and a great one, To many lords and ladies."

-Henry VIII.

The evening collation is served late, and custom has decreed that this repast should consist of the richest and most indigestible of foods ; perhaps that is the reason why fashion is turning a cold shoulder to the old time evening reception when people were invited for social intercourse. Whatever the reason, men and women of to-day have declined to accept Noah's invitation to come in pairs for no other amusement than that of each other's society. Now there must be something to do for our nervous, excitement-loving generation: the younger ones to dance, the older ones to play cards, and the musical, artistic, or pedantic are invited to enjoy their own specialties. Our business, however, is to tell the young housekeeper and prospective hostess what to have and how to serve it, so we will leave the matter of digestion for the doctor to settle the next day. The little suppers, where guests may be seated at small tables, are the most enjoyable. A menu which includes hot bouillon, hot entrees, light sandwiches, dainty biscuit, cold entrees, and salads with thick dressings, coffee with real cream, for those who take it, wine or punch, a frozen cream or ice, and light fancy cakes, is quite as much of a "collation" as anyone should indulge in, and very much less of a menu would be in better taste perhaps. The small tables should be daintily linened and flowered, with a cover for each person consisting of the necessary number of forks for the different courses, and a napkin and a glass for ice-water. These are all that are required besides the service plate, unless game is included in the menu, then a small silver knife should be in readiness at the right of the cover, and a teaspoon for the coffee, which on this occasion may be served with the meats or salad if there is no wine or punch. Coffee should be served in teacups if served with the supper, or in after-dinner cups as a last course. Dainty receptacles for sugar and cream should be on the table, as this is the only occasion when cream is allowable except at breakfast. This is undoubtedly to aid in the indigestible result of the whole affair. Exquisite little dishes of glass and silver containing salted nuts, bon-bons, and olives may also be placed on the small tables, for guests to help themselves. As the ambitious young housekeeper may be inclined to undertake a large and elaborate entertainment, in spite of advice to the contrary, the following suggestions may not be out of place:

The table for a large entertainment should be square or oblong, covered with a line damask cloth over one of thick cotton flannel. Flowers and fruit may be used in abundance, only avoid over-crowding. Dishes may be decorated and placed on the table from the beginning of the entertainment. There should be ' only one of each kind, however, more being supplied from the butler's pantry when necessary. Piles of plates, with folded napkins between, and forks by the side of them, are neatly arranged on the side-table, and all hot drinks or dishes are served from the butler's pantry. At this function guests may help themselves, if they are not seated at small tables, so that it is not always necessary to have a large corps of waiters for either large or small entertainments. Punches or frappes are usually served during the entire evening at a side-table from a large glass bowl with a silver ladle, into small glass cups made for the purpose. This service-table gives an opportunity to display ingenuity and originality, as the artistic decorations and gastronomic creations show to great advantage. Good taste demands a little restraint, however, that the hand of the caterer be not too apparent. Remember, the keynote to the success of the entertainment is individuality and refinement.

The following list of dishes are suitable for the evening collation, recipes for which can be found in their respective departments : Oyster Cocktails No. 5 (Oyster Cocktails), or Hot Bouillon No. 22 (Bouillon), Deviled Crabs No. 112 (Crabs, Deviled or Farcied), or Crabs, Lobster, Shrimps, or Oysters Creamed, Crab, Lobster, Shrimp, or Oyster Croquettes or Chops,

Terrapin, Lobster, or Shrimp a la Newburg No. 822 (Lobster a la Newburg), Chicken, Sweetbread, or Mushroom Creamed, or Chicken, Sweetbread, Lamb or Veal Croquettes. Any of the Cold Entrees, and any of the Salads with Mayonnaise or thick dressing, Hot or Cold Game, Frozen Creams or Ices, and fancy cakes, Frappes, or Punches, and Coffee No. 712 (Coffee, Boiled).

Evening Collations 70