Consomme is nothing more than a clear bouillon flavored to suit the taste. A pleasing variety is made by boiling in a quart of good stock four stalks of tender celery until they are ready to fall to pieces. Put away the stock without removing the celery. When perfectly cold take them out, breaking as little as possible, heat the soup, clearing it with white of egg if necessary, strain through a cloth, without pressing, into a clean kettle, and when it boils add the little cubes that give it its name. Cook gently one minute and turn into the tureen. Some authorities adTHE NATIONAL COOK BOOK 15 vise that the cubes be placed in the tureen without cooking in the soup and the hot liquid be poured upon them. The objection to this is that a good handful of the cold royales will cool the soup perceptibly.

To make the royales :

Heat in one saucepan three tablespoonfuls of milk ; in another the same quantity of clear stock. When the milk is scalding hot, add it gradually to two well-beaten eggs. Mix with the boiling stock a roux made by heating a tablespoonful of butter to a bubbling boil, and stirring into it a tablespoonful of flour until you have a smooth paste. Season the stock with paprica and salt. Stir the custard made with a beaten egg and milk over the fire for one minute, or until it thickens, and add, still stirring, to the stock. A pinch of soda in the hot milk will prevent curdling. Mix stock and custard away from the fire, spread upon a flat dish, and set in a cold place to harden. When cold and stiff, cut with a sharp knife into cubes or diamonds half an inch square, or into strips ; or, if you like, into more fanciful shapes.

This is a nice show soup for a dinner party. The custard is better if prepared the day before it is to be used and left on ice.