Have the backbone taken neatly out of the fish, and cut each half into two long strips. Trim them into uniform size and lay for an hour in salad oil and lemon-juice, or vinegar, setting the dish on ice. Roll each fillet then into a coil, the thin end outward, and skewer firmly into place with slivers of wood - toothpicks will do. Dip in beaten egg, then in cracker-dust, leave again on the ice for an hour, and fry in hot cottolene. (Bear in mind that fat for frying should be put into a cold pan, and brought slowly to the boil.) Shake off every drop of grease, pull out the skewers carefully, and dish.

Serve with tomato sauce.