As a nation we eat too much meat, and spend too much money for the quantity we use. The provincial butcher who told a customer that she would better buy from somebody else if she would have choice cuts every day, had hold of one thread of a common-sensible fact, although he could not state it even to himself. What are known as second-best portions, not because of freshness or sweetness, but on account of their location upon the body of the slain beast, have capabilities never suspected by the Average Cook. A very low order of culinary skill may suffice to make tolerably palatable and masticable a tender fillet, or chop, or rib-roast, even a beefsteak of prime quality. Unfortunately, these usually set forth rich men's tables and are handled by first-class cooks. Culinary genius and much experience are needed to make tough meats tender, yet nutritious, and to concoct dainty entrees out of coarse bits that are uneatable if treated according to the Average Cook's faith and practice.

A few general rules are needful as a foundation for the more explicit instructions which are to follow.

The darker meats, such as beef, mutton, venison and wild ducks, are wholesome and digestible if cooked to the "rare "— which is not the raw - point. All white meats - chicken, veal, turkey, pork, etc., must be well done, or they are unpalatable, indigestible, and to people who are used to good cookery, disgusting.

The secret of making tough meat tender is slow and steady cooking, especially braising, boiling, and stewing. It was the boast of a celebrated chef that he could make lignum vitae tender, if he were given all the time he asked. The heat should be low, but steady. The toughest fowl can be reduced to toothsome tenderness if steamed in a close kettle, or boiled, or braised in a covered roaster several hours. It should not reach the boil under one hour, and must never be allowed to cook briskly, from post to finish.

The first step in roasting meats is to make a close coating on the outside that will exclude air and keep in juices. This may be done by dashing a little boiling water over it, as it goes into the oven, or setting for ten minutes in a hot oven, then, removing to a slower. Chops and steaks may be similarly encased by holding the gridiron over a fierce fire for a few minutes, then broiling more deliberately. Fowls that are to be fricasseed are kept juicy by frying in boiling fat for a few minutes, then laid in a pot and covered with cold water.

Do not corn meat by seasoning it before it goes into the oven or frying-pan, or upon the gridiron, or into the saucepan. You will draw the juices out, instead of retaining them, and harden the fibres.