This section is from the book "The Pattern Cook-Book", by The Butterick Publishing Co.. Also available from Amazon: The Pattern Cook-Book.
"The vulgar boil - the learned roast, an egg."
Pope.
It is poor economy to limit the family in respect to eggs. They are most nutritious, and even at a high price, are cheaper than meat. They should be used freely by all, except those who know they cannot digest them. But by this we do not mean their extravagant use in rich cake, nor their being eaten when indigestibly prepared, as, for instance, when hard-boiled or fried; but we mean rather that they should be freely partaken of when simply cooked. Throughout the spring and summer eggs should form a large part of the fare at breakfast and luncheon, but if not served in a variety of ways, they will soon become very tiresome. The most healthful methods of preparing eggs are those by which they are not subjected to a temperature higher than that at which water boils. Eggs should never be boiled. When boiled for three minutes, they are called "soft-boiled," but in reality they are not soft-boiled at all, since one part is hard-boiled, while the other part is scarcely cooked at all. An egg that is properly cooked is not boiled. The white when eaten should yield to pressure like thick cream if taken between the fingers.
To ascertain the freshness of an egg without breaking it, hold it before a strong light or toward the sun; if the yolk appears round and the white surrounding it clear, the chances are the egg is good. Another test for eggs is to lay them in a pan of cold water; the fresh ones will sink immediately, while those that float are doubtful. The shell of a fresh egg looks dull and porous.
It is only necessary to close the pores of the shell. This may be done by varnishing or dipping them in melted suet, and then packing them in bran or salt, with the small end downward. Another method that is very successful is as follows : Pack the eggs in a stone jar, with the small ends downward; make a lime-water by pouring four quarts of boiling water over a pound of lime, and when this is cold and has settled, pour the water carefully upon the eggs in the jar. Lay a saucer on top of the eggs to keep them under the water, and set the jar in a cool, dark place.
Many people do not care for eggs which are boiled so that the whites are soft, although they know that they are far more nutritious when thus prepared. For those who prefer boiled eggs, the following directions are given : Place the eggs in a sauce-pan of boiling water, using a table-spoon or a frying-basket for the purpose. Boil them steadily for three minutes if desired" soft-boiled," and ten minutes if desired "hard-boiled." ,
There are two methods of cooking them in the more
. nutritious manner: First, place the eggs in a saucepan of cold water, and when the water boils the eggs are done ; this will take about ten minutes. Second, put six eggs in a vessel that will hold two quarts, fill the vessel with boiling water, cover it closely, and stand it in a warm place for ten minutes; in this way the eggs will be cooked equally well in every part. If the eggs are desired more thoroughly done, let them stand in the hot water ten or even twenty minutes longer, but do not place them on the range. Serve boiled eggs in a folded napkin.
In preparing eggs for garnishing or for salads they will require to be boiled at least fifteen minutes.
If the shell of an egg is cracked, pierce several small holes in the large end, and the contents of the egg will not burst out in boiling.
 
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