This section is from the book "The Pattern Cook-Book", by The Butterick Publishing Co.. Also available from Amazon: The Pattern Cook-Book.
This is an unwholesome meat, and is very undesirable for children and people with weak digestions. It should never be seen on the table, except in cold weather, unless, of course, in the form of smoked meat (ham or bacon). Salt pork, bacon and ham are less objectionable than fresh pork; in fact, salt pork and bacon should always be kept at hand in the kitchen to use in cooking other meats. In the country remote from the markets it is next to impossible even in summer for the housekeeper to provide for the table without a generous supply of bacon, ham and salt pork; but the danger is less in these homes, for the animals are fed on corn, and generally are so cared for that diseased meat is almost an impossibility.
There is no part of the pig that is not used; consequently to the poor man he is a very profitable animal. Pork requires a great deal of cooking, for when underdone the danger from eating it is very much increased.
The pig should be about three weeks old. The butcher draws and scrapes it, but the cook must clean it. Cover the point of a wooden skewer with a piece of soft cloth, and work the skewer into the ears to clean them. Cleanse the nostrils in the same way, and also the vent near the tail. Scrape the tongue, lips and gums with a sharp knife, wipe them with a soft cloth, and take out the eyes. Wash the pig well with cold water, wipe dry, and rub a table-spoonful of salt on the inside of the pig. Make the following
Three pints of bread-crumbs. Three tea-spoonfuls of salt. One-half tea-spoonful of pepper. One table-spoonful of powdered sage. Three table-spoonfuls of butter. One chopped onion.
Mix well together, first rubbing the butter into the crumbs, and then adding the seasoning; and fill the body with the stuffing. Press the fore-feet forward and the hind-feet backward, and skewer them to position. Force the mouth open, and place a small block of wood between the teeth. Butter two sheets of paper and pin them about the ears. Sprinkle the pig with salt, rub it all over with soft butter, and dredge with flour. Then place it in the roasting-pan, and cook at least three hours and a-half, basting every fifteen or twenty minutes with butter or salad oil, and sprinkling lightly with salt and flour after each basting. Water should not be used, if the surface of the meat is desired crisp. Remove the paper from the ears during the last half hour. When ready to serve, remove the block from the mouth, inserting in its place a small ear of corn or a small lemon. Serve apple sauce with this dish. In carving a roast pig, the head is cut off first, the meat split down the back, the hams and shoulders taken off and the ribs separated. A portion of the stuffing is served to each person.
The pieces used for roasting are the spare-rib, the chine or loin, the leg and the shoulder. If the leg is to be roasted, score the skin in squares, or in parallel lines running from side to side. Put very little water in the pan under the meat, sprinkle the latter with salt and pepper dredge lightly with flour, and roast twenty-five minutes to a pound. Pour off all but two table-spoonfuls of the fat. Place the pan on top of the stove, and when hot, stir in two table-spoonfuls of flour. Cook one min-ute, and add a pint of hot water, stirring constantly. Let the gravy cook three minutes, and season with salt and pepper. Those who do not object to a hint of onion in flavoring will find it a great addition to place a small onion in the pan while the meat is roasting. This, of course, is removed before the gravy is made; but it takes off the extreme "pig" flavor that is so disagreeable and noticeable in old pork.
 
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