The potato is more generally used than any other vegetable. It contains but little muscle-forming food and is composed three-fourths of water, the other fourth consisting largely of starch. In the spring sprouts begin to grow at the expense of the starch, and if allowed to remain, they soon exhaust all there is of good in the potato ; hence they should be removed as soon as they appear. The majority of housekeepers do not understand the characteristics of this vegetable. It may be soaked in water for twelve or more hours before being cooked and will be improved rather than injured by the process, but let it stand in but little moisture after it is cooked and it will soon be spoiled. The starch in the raw potato does not unite with moisture, but as soon as it is cooked it absorbs water like a sponge. A good potato will be light and mealy when boiled or baked, but if the cooking be continued too long, the potato will become dark, heavy and strong-flavored. If potatoes are desired for warming over or for a salad, they should not be very mealy. New potatoes, being rather moist, are to be preferred for these two purposes ; but potatoes that are to be used in either of these two ways, and that are usually mealy when boiled, may be greatly improved by taking them from the water when a little underdone.

Boiled Potatoes

There are so many ways of boiling potatoes that it is really difficult to satisfy one's mind which is the best, each mode being good, provided it is properly followed. The French hold that by using too much water the flavor of the potatoes becomes seriously impaired, but American cooks always cover them well with water during the boiling. Select potatoes of uniform size, wash and scrub them well, and pare them or not, as may be desired. Potatoes that are not prime and have any indication of worm holes or decay should always be pared and these blemishes removed. Let the potatoes soak an hour in cold water, place them in a kettle, and cover with boiling water, adding a table-spoonful of salt to every eight potatoes after they have been boiling fifteen minutes.

They should boil only moderately, else the outside will be broken before the center is cooked, which never happens except when the boiling has been too strong. Potatoes should be done in thirty-five minutes. When tender, pour off all the water, and set the kettle on the back part of the range, with the cover half off to let the steam escape. Serve very hot. If the potatoes are to be kept any length of time, cover the kettle with a folded towel after pouring off the water.

Mashed Potatoes

Pare the potatoes carefully, and boil as above directed. If they are very mealy when done, drain the water from them and mash at once. If they do not seem mealy, set them for a moment with the cover off the kettle, and they will soon be ready for the mashing. Mash them well, and to every quart of potatoes add

One table-spoonful of butter. One table-spoonful of salt. One-half tea-spoonful of pepper. Hot milk or cream to moisten.

Mash the potatoes in the kettle in which they were boiled, beat them with a fork or spoon until light and creamy and turn out lightly in the warmed serving dish. Do not smooth the potatoes, as that will make them compact and heavy. By using the masher illustrated on page 32, potatoes may be made very light.