This section is from the book "Our Viands - Whence They Come And How They Are Cooked", by Anne Walbank Buckland. Also available from Amazon: Our Viands: Whence They Come and How They are Cooked.
The chick pea, which is cultivated in South Europe, especially in Spain, does not boil soft, but is used to garnish savoury dishes, and always forms part of the universal Spanish dish called an olla, which is composed of bacon, cabbage, pumpkin, and chick peas, called garvanzos. This pea, when parched, is much esteemed, and is supposed to be that which formed the parched pulse which was the common provision of the Hebrew soldiers: it was also probably that which was supplied to Daniel, Shadrach, Meshech, and Abednego instead of meat. Parched pulse seems also to have formed a part of the ordinary food of the common people of ancient Rome.
A curious property is noticed as belonging to the chickling vetch, a leguminous plant, which in the last century was used for making bread, until forbidden by the Government. Mixed with half flour it is good and harmless, but eaten alone it produces paralysis of the limbs, and swine fed upon it become very fat, but quite unable to stand. The Italians, however, still eat it mixed with three-parts of flour. There is a bean called the chestnut bean, discovered by Mr. Cunningham growing on a tree in New South Wales, which when roasted, is said to resemble chestnuts.
There is a kind of bean which, although not used in cookery, must yet be noticed here, it is that known as the Kuara bean, growing on a beautiful tree in Abyssinia and many other parts of Africa. This tree, known as Erythrina, produces a beautiful spike of scarlet flowers, succeeded by pods containing several little scarlet beans with a black spot, which vary so little in weight, that under the name of carats they have been used from time immemorial as the standard weight for gold and gems, especially diamonds.
A curious fact regarding leguminous plants is mentioned in Rhind's 'History of the Vegetable Kingdom,' which is that they generate so much carbonic acid gas, especially when flowering, that in mining districts the overseers have to guard against the deadly gas sinking into the pits and causing the death of the miners, by especial ventilation during the bean season. We do not remember to have seen anything of the kind mentioned elsewhere, and it is perhaps an exploded idea. Of late years green peas tinned, have been largely imported from France, and are excellent eating, but some in bottles, preserved in England, are still better; we also get from America, Boston baked beans, and succotash, which is Indian corn mixed with beans, and very good as a winter vegetable.
The vegetable which was in universal use before the potato was known, still holds its place as second in public estimation; this is cabbage, which in its wild state appears to be indigenous in England, as well as on the Continent of Europe, but in its cultivated form came to us first, we are told, through the Romans, although the many varieties of this useful plant which are now sold in our markets and served on our tables are of later introduction, and come from various countries. According to Candolle, the wild cabbage of the Mediterranean is the parent of all our varieties.
Dr. Lindley divides cabbage into five classes, the first of which includes kail as grown in Scotch kailyards - that is, cabbage in which the leaves are loose and do not turn into a head. - In the second class we find Brussels sprouts; in the third, common cabbage, savoys, etc.; in the fourth, cauliflower and brocoli; in the fifth, kohl-rabi.
According to Columella, cabbage was a favourite food with Roman freemen, and was sufficiently abundant to be given also to slaves. Cromwell's soldiers are credited with its introduction into Scotland, but we can hardly believe that it was unknown to Scotland at so late a date. The close-hearted variety was imported from Holland, until Sir Anthony Ashley brought it into cultivation in England. It is said that a cabbage is sculptured at the feet of this gentleman on his monument in Wimborne Minster, Dorset, but according to all accounts he was not altogether an admirable personage, although he rendered a great benefit to the gardeners of this country by the introduction of the cabbage, which in some form serves as food for rich and poor all the year round.
Sir Anthony Ashley brought his cabbage, it is said, in more forms than one, from Cales (Cadiz), where he held a command and grew rich by taking unlawful possession of other men's goods, and especially by appropriating some jewels entrusted to him by a lady; hence he is said to have got more by Cales (Cadiz) than by Cale (cabbage). This, perhaps, may be the origin of our term to cabbage. A curious cabbage is found in the Channel Islands. It grows to 8 or even 16 feet in height, and throws out branches from the central stem, which is so hard and woody that walking-sticks are made of it, and it is used as rafters for cottage roofs. Then there is the Portugal cabbage, the mid-ribs of which are cooked like seakale.*
Among the curious kinds of cabbage must also be reckoned the kohl-rabi, which is something between - or, rather, a combination of - the cabbage and the turnip, the stem of the cabbage swelling out just above the roots, and forming a round, turnip-like mass, which in this country is only grown - and that very sparingly - as food for cattle; but which, among the Dutch at the Cape, as well as on the Continent of Europe, especially in Germany, is greatly esteemed as a vegetable, and, when properly cooked, is very delicious. Both parts are used: the green leaves are cooked like spinach, and put round the dish, whilst the turnip part is cut into strips, boiled tender, and placed in the centre, thus forming an ornamental and very appetising addition to the dinner-table, which might be advantageously introduced into England; but the prejudices of our cooks are not easily overcome. It is hard to convince them that what 'furriners' and cattle eat, can be good for Englishmen, although we are glad to see in the greengrocers' shops everywhere now, the large and very delicious cow cabbage, one of which is sufficient for a dozen men. Perhaps, some day the kohl-rabi also may appear on the market, instead of being, as at present, occasionally exhibited at agricultural shows as good food for cattle, in which exhibits, size is the great recommendation; whereas for cooking purposes, the smaller plants are preferable, and they should, of course, be taken when both leaves and bulb are young and tender.
 
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