Our Viands - Whence They Come And How They Are Cooked | by Anne Walbank Buckland
The art of cookery is no new thing, yet the tastes of mankind are so diverse, that the proverb, 'One man's meat is another man's poison,' becomes a truism.
With A Bundle Of Old Recipes From Cookery Books Of The Last Century
By Anne Walbank Buckland, Member Of The Anthropological Institute. Author Of 'Anthropological Studies.' 'The World Beyond The Esterelles,' Etc.
' Tell me what thou eatest and I will tell thee who thou art.' - Old Proverb.
' Viands of various kinds allure the taste Of choicest sort and savour; rich repast.' - Pope.
Introduction- The art of cookery is no new thing, yet the tastes of mankind are so diverse, that the proverb, 'One man's meat is another man's poison,' becomes a truism. There still exist savages who prefer raw mea...
Introduction. Continued- We have heard of nests of eggs cooked by the heat of the sun in South Africa, whilst in Iceland and some other countries it is possible to cook by means of the boiling springs. We are apt to experi...
Part I. Bread. Wheat, Barley, Rye, Oats. Chapter I. Bread- Man is an omnivorous animal: nothing comes amiss to him. When hunger impels he will eat the vilest refuse, but in times of prosperity bread, meat, and vegetables form the staple of his diet. 'Do...
Bread. Part 2- If, however, we turn to Eastern lands, to the records of the earliest of historians, we shall find agriculture in a state of great advancement. Before the days of Moses, not only was wheaten bread in ...
Bread. Part 3- In Germany the best white bread is everywhere made in small rolls of different shapes, very delicious when quite new, but the Germans have an almost superstitious belief in the medicinal virtues of an...
Bread. Part 4- We have lately seen rye bread exposed for sale in a few London shops, so, probably, there is a limited sale for it, although chiefly among the Germans; but in early times the bread consumed by men in ...
Chapter II. Maize And Millet- It has fallen to my lot more than once to be told by Americans 'You have no corn in England.' At first I felt somewhat insulted by this assertion - especially as we were at the time journeying by rail...
Maize And Millet. Continued- , The Chinese, who have always been diligent agriculturists, attach great importance to the influence of the moon upon vegetation, and have a table of those plants which invariably flower in the night...
Chapter III. Various Bread-Stuffs- We have passed in review the bread-stuffs used in Europe and America, but there remains a very important class of bread-making material very little known to us, but affording nourishment to many thous...
Various Bread-Stuffs. Continued- It is somewhat singular that rice, so highly esteemed by the poor in Asia, is used chiefly by the rich in other parts of the world. Even in times of famine, our poor would think themselves very badly ...
Chapter IV. Cakes And Puddings- We have never met with an explanation of the reason why all the principal events in human life should require to be celebrated by different kinds of cakes. We have cakes for christenings, weddings, bi...
Cakes And Puddings. Part 2- 'I'll to thee a simnel bring 'Gainst thou go a-mothering; So that when she blesses thee, Half that blessing thou'lt give me.' These simnels were usually marked with the figure of Christ or the Virg...
Cakes And Puddings. Part 3- Twelfth-Day cakes and Twelfth-Day observances have, however, faded almost into oblivion in these utilitarian days, when even children begin to say, * What is the use of this and that?' but in Ireland ...
Cakes And Puddings. Part 4- There was also an indispensable Christmas dish known as plum porridge, of which the old nursery rhyme relates: - 'The man in the moon came clown too soon + To ask his way to Norwich; The man in the...
Part II. Meat. Chapter V. Christmas Fare - The Roast Beef Of Old England And The Boar's Head- On thousands of tables at Christmas-tide the roast beef of Old England smokes with appetising odour. From the lordly baron which always graces the Queen's table, and the goodly sirloin of aristo...
Christmas Fare. Continued- Cattle in vast numbers are slaughtered apparently as sacrifices among the Zulu tribes on great occasions; thus we are told that on the election of Lo Benguela, whose name has been so prominently befor...
Chapter VI. Sundry Meats- We will begin this chapter by treating of that which, by universal consent, is allowed to be the best and most wholesome of animal food - that is, mutton. In the colonies mutton ranks with daily br...
Sundry Meats. Part 2- A dog sat at the door of a cottage, watching the vain efforts of a man on the hills at some distance, to collect together a flock of sheep. Up and down he ran, and as fast as he got a dozen together t...
Sundry Meats. Part 3- The parable of the Prodigal Son marks the depth of his degradation by making him a swineherd. But our English chroniclers give a story, in which a herd of swine running into the water, caused the foun...
Sundry Meats. Part 4- The death of the beautiful fallow-deer has always caused a certain feeling of remorseful pity, even in the breast of the successful hunter, and poets have drawn many beautiful similes from the chase a...
Chapter VII. Game And Poultry- There may perhaps have been vegetarians in all ages, but they are certainly rare among the lower races of the present day, and have probably always been so of necessity rather than by choice, for doub...
Game And Poultry. Part 2- Time was when the only specimen of foreign game which appeared on English tables was the French partridge, which has long been naturalised among us, and of which a poet writes - 'As I was standing ...
Game And Poultry. Part 3- The peacock is seldom if ever sent to table at the present day in its gorgeous plumes, the latest recorded instance of its appearance being at a dinner given to William IV. when Duke of Clarence, by t...
Chapter VIII. Eggs- Of all articles of diet, eggs are perhaps the most generally accepted; they are relished alike by sage and savage, and form a nutritious meal for prince or peasant. Nor is the taste for this universal...
Eggs. Part 2- The Chinese spring festival always occurs in April when the sun enters the fifteenth degree of Aries, and as the cock is sacred to the sun, the egg may have come in this way to symbolise the new sprin...
Eggs. Part 3- 'An egg, an apple, and a nut, You may eat after any slut.' That, however, is not quite true as regards eggs, for the shell being porous readily absorbs anything malodorous which is placed near it, ...
Chapter IX. Dairy Produce- How shall we estimate the debt we owe to the man or woman who first thought of domesticating the useful cow for the sake of her milk? How early in the world's history that domestication took place it ...
Dairy Produce. Continued- This was the poorer sort of Dorset cheese, made of milk skimmed once, and sometimes twice; but the richer kind of mouldy cheesen, into which a portion of cream entered, was almost equal to Stilton, ho...
Chapter X. Fish- Fish, which is at once the most common of food and the most difficult to procure, has been esteemed by almost all peoples in all ages. Nevertheless, some tribes, even at the present day, reject fish a...
Fish. Part 2- Next to herrings, probably whiting and mackerel are the most numerous fish met with on our coasts; but large quantities of mackerel are now brought from Norway, as well as cod and salmon. Cod has an i...
Fish. Part 3- Some of my readers who have, like myself, long passed the season of youth, will remember how, in our juvenile days, the more sophisticated of our fellows used to try to puzzle our infantine intellect ...
Chapter XI. Unappreciated Trifles- 'Necessity knows no law,' says the proverb, and starvation will cause people to eat anything, but nothing short of that would induce the average English man or woman, to partake of some of the dishes ...
Unappreciated Trifles. Part 2- Again, in the south of France and Italy you see people eating with relish the sea urchin, brought to table, like oysters, in the shell, and scooped out with a spoon. Having purchased some of these to ...
Unappreciated Trifles. Part 3- * Kirby and Spence tell us that spiders are eaten by Bushmen and the inhabitants of New Caledonia ; and Reaumur relates that a young lady cracked and ate every spider she came across. Anna Maria Schur...
Chapter XII. Condiments- The proverb that ' hunger is the best sauce' is, like many other proverbs, trite, and true to a certain extent, for a starving man would not ask for pepper and mustard to make his meat relish, althoug...
Condiments. Part 2- The spices known, in the reign of Henry III. were of course those of the East Indies - cinnamon, nutmeg (with its outer network, known as mace), cloves, pepper, and ginger; and to these must be added ...
Condiments. Part 3- One of the English condiments greatly in favour formerly seems to have fallen into disuse except in certain counties, this is saffron, which at one time was used in many sauces and cakes, and appears ...
Part III. Vegetables. Chapter XIII. Nuts And Apples- Of all the fruits of the earth, perhaps nuts are the most important and the most highly appreciated, for every part of the world has one or more, forming a great portion of the food of the peopl...
Nuts And Apples. Part 2- When we journey into tropical regions we find a great many very tough, but extremely valuable, nuts to crack, and first and foremost is the cocoanut, which is the principal food and wealth of the nati...
Nuts And Apples. Part 3- The common tradition that the apple was the forbidden fruit, with which Eve was tempted, shows at all events the pre-eminence of the fruit in the esteem of ancient gastronomers, although the much lame...
Chapter XIV. Grapes, Figs, And Oranges- How is it that we always think of the grape rather as a wine-producer than as a fruit? Perhaps because the earliest historical record of it is when Noah began to be a husbandman and planted a vineyard...
Grapes, Figs, And Oranges. Continued- The present importation of dried figs into Great Britain must be enormous. Many years ago, from Turkey only, it amounted to nine hundred tons annually, besides those coming from France, Italy, and Spa...
Chapter XV. Stone Fruits And Berries- Prudent folks are always impressing the fact upon juveniles that stone fruits are unwholesome, but what boy or girl can resist the cry of 'Cherry Ripe!' or avoid the luscious plum, and the still more ...
Stone Fruits And Berries. Part 2- The most singular of the peach family is the flat peach of China, which somewhat resembles a Normandy pippin with a stone in the centre, of which the flavour is said to be excellent. Of the plum th...
Stone Fruits And Berries. Part 3- South African colonists compare this old British fruit with that which is called the Cape gooseberry, and are inclined to believe - like our American cousins with the Indian corn - that theirs is the ...
Chapter XVI. On The Borderland' Twixt Fruit And Vegetable- In visiting national collections of pictures in this country and on the Continent we are almost sure to come across one of Murillo's charming Spanish boys, sitting, ragged and dirty, munching a huge s...
On The Borderland' Twixt Fruit And Vegetable. Continued- Pumpkins and vegetable marrows, which belong to the same tribe as the melon and the cucumber, are certainly vegetables, not being eaten in the raw state. As vegetables they are much more esteemed abro...
Chapter XVII. Roots- It is hard to realise the fact that three hundred years ago the potato was unknown in Europe, and we wonder what our ancestors could have done without a vegetable which is now regarded as indispensabl...
Roots. Part 2- Next to the potato, the most important root of modern times is undoubtedly the turnip, which in its many varieties keeps thousands of cattle alive, and is not despised as a vegetable on the most lordl...
Roots. Part 3- ' Around him lay whatever could excite, With pungent force, the jaded appetite ; Rapes, lettuce, radishes, anchovy brine, With skirrets, and the lees of Coan wine.' Skirrets have recently re-appear...
Chapter XVIII. Pulse And Cabbage- Beans and peas are familiar to everybody as vegetables, and are in use all the year round, but few people are aware that they have been in cultivation perhaps longer than any other vegetable in Europe...
Pulse And Cabbage. Part 2- The chick pea, which is cultivated in South Europe, especially in Spain, does not boil soft, but is used to garnish savoury dishes, and always forms part of the universal Spanish dish called an olla, ...
Pulse And Cabbage. Part 3- * The staple food of Russian peasants consists of black rye-bread and cabbage broth thickened with oatmeal, to which salt fish is sometimes added, Next to ordinary cabbage, the savoy ranks as a fav...
Chapter XIX. Salads And Seasonings- Having now passed in review most of the vegetables commonly seen on an English dinner-table, it remains only to mention two or three plants grown chiefly for salads, which on the Continent form an ind...
Recipes, Old And New- The old recipes which follow are taken chiefly from family recipe-books dating back to the last century, and also from two old books without date or title page, but known as 'The Experienced Eng...
How To Make Baking Powder- An equal quantity in bulk of tartaric acid, carbonate of soda, and ground rice or cornflour. Mix thoroughly, and rub through a wire sieve. One teaspoonful to be used to each pound of dry ingredients u...
How To Make Bread And Buns- Whole-Meal Bread To 5 lbs. of meal take 1 oz. carbonate of soda, 3/4 oz. tartaric acid, 3 pints water. Dissolve the soda in 2 1/2 pints of water, and mix thoroughly with the meal in a glazed pan; l...
How To Make Cakes- Tea Cakes 1 lb. flour, 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder, 3 oz. butter, pinch of salt. Mix; cut with glass or tin shape, and bake twenty minutes in a quick oven. Cornish Heavy Cake 2 lbs. f...
How To Make Muffins And Doughnuts- Rye Muffins With sweet milk - 3/4 of a cup of rye meal, 3/4 of a cup of flour, 1/2 teaspoonful of soda, 1 teaspoonful of cream of tartar, 1 teaspoonful of sugar, 1 saltspoon of salt, 1 egg beaten a...
How To Make Cheesecakes- How To Make Cheesecakes (Old Recipe) Take 1 quart of cream and 1 gallon of milk, run it tender as you do cold cheese (i.e., make of it a light curd with rennet), when 'tis come, brake it and draw t...
How To Make Jumballs- Jumballs (Old Recipe) 1/2 lb. of butter, the same quantity of white sugar, 1 lb. of flour, 3 oz. of almonds, 3 eggs, and a little lemon peel. Melt the butter in a pan, beat the sugar into it, break...
How To Make Dumplings- Norfolk Or Hard Dumpling Take 1 lb. flour and mix it with cold water by degrees till it is a stiff dough, putting in a pinch of salt. Knead it well for at least five minutes, then cut it into piece...
Miscellaneous Recipes To Make Bread, Cakes, Pastry- Maccaroons (Old Recipe) Take 1 lb. of almonds, let them be scalded, blanched, and thrown into cold water, then dry them in a cloth and pound them in a mortar; moisten them with orange-flower water,...
How To Make Puddings- Crumply Pudding 1 quart of milk, 4 tablespoonfuls of flour, 2 eggs, 1/4 lb. of moist sugar, and a little finely-chopped suet. Grease a mould, stick it with raisins, orange and lemon peel, and citro...
How To Make Paste- The art of paste making is a mystery to which some cooks never attain: they have, as it is termed, a heavy hand, and, do what thay will, their pastry is never light. The varieties of paste and modes o...
How To Make Pies- An Umble Pie (Old Recipe) Take the umbles of a buck, boil them and chop them as small as meat for minced pies, put to them as much beef suet, 8 apples, 1/2 lb. of sugar, 1 1/2 lb. of currants, a li...
How To Cook Meats, Etc. - Old Recipes- The German Way Of Dressing Fowls Take a turkey or fowl, stuff the breast with what forcemeat you like, fill the body with roasted chestnuts peeled, and lay it down to roast. Take 1/2 pint of good g...
How To Cook Meats, Etc. - Old Recipes. Continued- How To Broil Eggs First put your salamander into the fire, then cut a slice round a quartern loaf, toast it brown and butter it, lay it on a dish, and set it before the fire; poach 7 eggs just enou...
How To Cook Mutton- A Shoulder Or Leg Of Mutton Stuffed Stuff with mutton suet, salt, pepper, nutmeg, grated bread, and yolks of eggs; then stick it all over with cloves and roast it. When about half done, cut off som...
How To Make Stew- How To Stew Beef Collops Cut raw beef, as veal is cut for Scotch collops. Put the collops into a stew-pan with a little water, a glass of white wine, a shallot, a little dried marjoram rubbed to po...
How to Roast Meat- For Roasting Beef If a sirloin or rump, you must not salt it, but lay it a good way from the fire; baste it once or twice with water and salt, then with butter; flour it, and keep basting it with i...
How to Roast Meat. Continued- How To Roast A Pig Spit your pig, and lay it down to a clear fire. Put into the belly a few sage leaves, a little pepper and salt, a small crust of bread, and a bit of butter; sew it up, and flour ...
A Few Modern Recipes - Tried And Approved- The South African Hunter's Greatest Delicacy While Camping Out The liver of the bok just killed, either grilled on a gridiron or roasted on large flat stones made red hot in a wood fire. Eaten with...
A Few Modern Recipes. Part 2- Hot-Pot Hot-pot is made of mutton chops placed in a deep dish (known as a hot-pot dish), with a good layer of potatoes cut in pieces, some onion chopped fine, pepper, and salt; then another layer o...
A Few Modern Recipes. Part 3- Maccaroni Pie Any kind of cold meat minced, pepper, salt, and a little Worcester sauce, an onion cut small, and half a cupful of stock. Place all at the bottom of a pie-dish, fill it up with boiled...
How To Cook Springbok- How To Dress Springbok Take the leg, lard it well with strips of bacon or salted tail of the Africander sheep (which has a tail sometimes 25 lbs. in weight), put butter on it and dredge with flour,...
Few Foreign Dishes- Garlic Pork (Portuguese Christmas Dish) Cut up fresh streaky pork into small pieces, rub them with salt, pound a few cloves of garlic, a bunch of sweet herbs, and some Chili peppers. Pack closely i...
How To Dress A Haggis- Get a butcher to send you the stomach of a sheep, and the liver, heart, and lungs; see that the bag, or paunch as it is called, is well cleaned, scald it, and put it to soak all night in a weak brine....
How To Cure Hams- 1 lb. of bay salt, 1/2 lb. of common salt, 2 oz. saltpetre, 1 oz. black pepper ground; mix and pound these together. Rub the hams with it and let them lie four days, then put 1 1/2 lb. of treacle over...
How To Cook Eggs and Omelette- Parmesan Omelette Beat up 3 eggs, with pepper and salt to taste, and a tablespoonful of Parmesan cheese grated. Put a piece of butter the size of an egg into an omelet pan. As soon as it is melted ...
How To Cook Vegetables, Fruit, Etc., Etc- Tomato Soup 1 pint tin of tomatoes, or 4 large raw ones cut up fine, add 1 quart of boiling water, and let them boil a quarter of an hour; then add 1 teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, when it will ...
How To Cook Vegetables, Fruit, Etc., Etc. Continued- How To Make Lemon Pickle Cut 6 lemons into 8 pieces each, put on them 1 lb. of salt, 6 cloves of garlic, 2 oz. of horse-radish sliced, of cloves, mace, nutmeg, and cayenne 1/4 oz. each, and 2 oz. o...
How To Candy Fruits- How To Candy Cherries Get them before they are full ripe, stone them, and having boiled your fine sugar to a height, pour it on them, gently moving them, and so let them stand till almost cold, the...
How To Preserve Fruits- How To Preserve Cherries, With Leaves And Stalks Green Take morel cherries, dip the stalks and leaves in the best vinegar boiling hot, stick the sprigs upright in a sieve till they are dry; in the ...