This section is from the book "The Cook Book By "Oscar" Of The Waldorf", by Oscar Tschirky. Also see: How to Cook Everything.
The kernel of the almond nut is largely used in cooking and confectionery for its delicate flavor. There are two kinds, sweet and bitter, so closely resembling each other in appearance as to be almost indistinguishable, excepting by the taste. The sweet variety are harmless, but the bitter almonds contain or generate by fermentation, prussic acid, rendering them extremely dangerous to use without much discretion. A hundred grains of bitter almond pulp are said to contain two drops of the oil, and from fifteen to thirty drops of the oil are sufficient to cause death. The skins of both kinds are very indigestible, and have been known, even when eaten in small quantities, to induce attacks of nettle-rash. For this reason almonds should invariably be skinned or blanched before using.
The best almonds are the Jordan, imported chiefly from Malaga, and preferred for dessert. They are of two kinds; the one above one inch in length, flat with a clean brown skin, sweet, mucilaginous, and rather tough; the other more plump, pointed at one end, brittle, but quite as sweet as the former. Valencia almonds are reckoned of the second quality; they are cheaper, and consequently are more used. They are under one inch long, round at one end, and bluntly pointed at the other, flat and of a dingy-brown color, and have a dusty skin. Barbary and Italian almonds are smaller and less flattened. Spanish almonds are of mediocre quality, and are usually imported in baskets. When fresh, either kind may be used; but cooks strongly recommend not to buy kernels of any kind if they are dry, broken, worm-eaten, or smell in the least degree rancid.
To Blanch Almonds: The almonds should be thrown into a pan of boiling water, and allowed to remain over the fire until the skins will slip off readily when rubbed between the finger and thumb. It is well then to drain them off, and to plunge them into cold water for a minute or two, when they may be drained again, and the skins rubbed off with a cloth. As they are blanched, throw them into cold water, with a little salt in it; leave them for a couple of hours, then take them out and dry them. They are easily split with a knife, or may be cut lengthwise into long shreds, according to the purpose for which they are required.
To Color Almonds: Whether the almonds are whole, shredded or chopped, it is only necessary to rub them together with the coloring matter until they are saturated; they should then be dried in a screen.
To Pound Almonds: It is better after blanching to let them soak for an hour or so in cold water, which will prevent them in a measure from "oiling." A few drops of water, orange-flower water, or lemon-juice, should be added now and then for the same purpose, as the pounding proceeds. When reduced to a softish pulp, they are ready for use.
Take an equal quantity each of flour, almonds and sugar, the zest of two or three oranges rasped on lumps of sugar, two or three whole eggs, and an extra yolk or so. Scald the almonds and remove their skins, afterwards soaking for two hours in cold salt and water. Pound them thoroughly in a mortar, with a few drops of orange-water added to prevent oiling, until reduced to a pulp; then mix in the remainder of the ingredients by pounding all together. Knead the paste with a little flour on a slab, roll it with a bit of flat-board into the shape of a straight rolling-pin, lay this on a greased baking-board, and cover it over, baking in a moderate heat until done, then while hot, cut it up into slices, and dry on a baking-sheet in a very slow oven. After they are dried, moisten their edges with royal icing, dip them in finely-chopped pistachio kernels, and dry them for a few minutes.
 
Continue to: