This section is from the book "The White Ribbon Cook Book", by Kathryn Armstrong. Also available from Amazon: The White Ribbon Cook Book.
The cook should be well acquainted with the different sort of things called by this name by ignorant people, as the deaths of many persons have been caused by carelessly using the poisonous kinds. The eatable mushrooms first appear very small and of a round form on a very small stalk. They grow very fast, and the upper part and stalk are white. As the size increases the under part gradually opens and shows a fringy fur of a very fine salmon color which continues more or less till the mush room has been picked, when it turns to a brown. The skin can be more easily peeled from the real mushroom than the poisonous kind. A good test is to sprinkle a little salt on the spongy part or gills of the sample to be tried; if they turn black they are wholesome, if yellow they are poisonous. Give the salt a little time to act before you decide as to their quality.
Gather those that have red gills; cut off that part of the stem which grew in the earth; wash, and take the skin from the top; put them in a stewpan with some salt; stew them till tender; thicken with 1 spoonful butter and browned flour.
Prepare them as directed for stewing. Broil them on a griddle; and when done, sprinkle salt and pepper on the gills, and put a little butter on them.
Pare the top and cut off part of the stalk, wipe them carefully with a piece of flannel or cloth and a little fine salt. Then put them into a baking-dish and put a piece of butter an each mushroom. Sprinkle with pepper to taste and bake for 20 minutes or 1/2 hour. When done serve on a hot dish with the gravy poured over the mushrooms.
Cut the mushrooms in pieces, and toss them over a brisk fire in butter seasoned with salt, a very little nutmeg, and 1 bunch herbs. When they are done enough, and the butter nearly all wasted away, take out the herbs, add the yolk of 1 egg beaten up in some good cream; make very hot and serve.
 
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