Cereals are from two-thirds to three-fourths starch, and the balance consists of protein, fat, water, mineral matter, and woody fiber. Since cereals absorb several times their bulk of water while cooking and milk is usually eaten with them, the result is a food which is about three-fourths water. Analyses of oatmeal and corn-meal generally show a slightly larger proportion of fat than is found in wheat; hence, those grains should be used more freely in winter than in summer, while wheat and rice are better for warm weather.

The great variety of prepared cereals displayed in our grocery stores indicates the favor in which they are held. Through the ingenuity of the millers, barley, corn, oats, rice, rye, and wheat are prepared in many different forms.

It is not wise to try to gratify the notions of different members of a family for the various cereals every morning. What a procession of double boilers would be required! Rather have some rotation through the different days of the week. With the great variety of prepared grains in the market it is quite possible to have a different one every morning for a fortnight.

The utensils to be chosen for cooking mushes require some attention. Not only are the cereals to be combined with water, but usually are to be cooked over water. When a double boiler is not available, a tin pail can be used if placed on a trivet to raise it from the bottom of the kettle of water. Another way is to place the dish containing the cereal, salt, and a little less than the usual quantity of boiling water in a steamer and cook till tender.

From a shallow dish, even if covered, there is more evaporation than from a deep one, but a large quantity of cereal cooked in a deep dish will pack down so solidly that the lower part may be stiff and unpalatable.

Hominy, cracked wheat, and the coarser grains must be picked over before cooking, and are not harmed by washing and soaking. The finer forms may be sifted, for all grains are liable to invasions by insects. All the prepared cereals are better if cooked for a longer time than the usual printed directions indicate. Double the time given on most packages is none too long to make the grains wholesome and palatable. It is hardly possible to cook any grain too long. Coarse oatmeal and cracked wheat should be cooked several hours the previous day to be fit for breakfast.

It is important to start with the right proportion of water in making mushes, for the sticky consistency of the cooked grains makes it difficult to add more after the process is begun, and it is not easy to dispose of any if too much is used at first. The proper quantity of water depends upon the nature of the grain, the size of its particles, and upon the dish in which it is cooked.

The object in cooking cereals is to provide for the absorption of water and the thorough cooking of the starch. The larger and drier the grain, the more time is required to accomplish these results. Whole grains are improved by soaking in cold water. To prevent the formation of lumps, finely ground preparations may be mixed with cold water first. All others should be put into boiling water.

Ordinary oatmeal needs four times its bulk of water, cracked wheat, a little more. The rolled grains require but twice their bulk. Being crushed they expose much more surface to the action of the water and heat, and therefore may be cooked more quickly than the cracked oats.

Granulated wheat preparations (and their name is legion) will need about four times as much water as cereal, and must be mixed carefully to avoid lumps. Corn-meal likewise requires three or four times its bulk of water, and should be cooked for hours to be palatable and digestible. Use one teaspoon of salt to each quart of water. Have the water boiling hot, add the cereal gradually, letting the mixture cook rapidly for a few minutes. Then place over boiling water to cook slowly for a long time, covered and without stirring.

Rice can be cooked in a large quantity of water and drained, which leaves the grains separate and distinct, but this is wasteful unless the water is used in thickening a soup.

Of the several cereals already cooked, which may be served directly from the package or after slightly heating, nothing need be said here, except that they are convenient for emergencies and seem well adapted to the use of some individuals who cannot enjoy other preparations.

Cereals are sometimes cooked, in strained fruit juice, in milk, or in soup stock when it is desirable to give variety or increase the nutriment. Fruit may be cooked with the grains; raisins, dates, and apples are best suited for this purpose.

Fresh or cooked fruits are excellent accompaniments to the breakfast cereals.

For hot weather cereals are often more attractive served cold. They should be cooked the previous day and molded in individual or fancy shapes. Even if served hot a moderately stiff mush will take the shape of a mold if it can stand there for fifteen minutes ' before being turned out to serve.