Under this heading we shall consider all the varieties of the single species Brassica oleracea, Linn., cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts and kale. All these plants contain a volatile material, rich in hydrogen and sulphur, which is driven off by careless cooking and also by overcooking. The odor is unpleasant and very penetrating, yet it can be entirely avoided by careful cooking.

Cabbage is a waste food, principally digested in the small intestine, and more easily digested raw than when overboiled. If carefully cooked in salted water it is, however, quite readily digested.

A hard winter cabbage makes an excellent salad when served with French dressing.

Boiled Cabbage

Trim off the outer leaves, cut the cabbage into halves, and, if the head is hard and dense, cut it into quarters. Soak in cold water for one hour; then shake the cabbage and put it into a kettle of boiling salted water, being careful to have sufficient water to cover the cabbage. Boil in an uncovered vessel for three-quarters of an hour until tender and white; drain; dish the pieces neatly in a shallow dish and pour over either English drawn butter or white sauce.

Ladies' Cabbage

Cut a small, hard head of cabbage into halves; remove the core and the harder portions, chop the remaining part of the head quite fine. Throw this into a kettle of boiling salted water, boil uncovered for thirty minutes; drain in a colander. Put the cabbage back in the saucepan, add two tablespoonfuls of butter, a tablespoonful of flour; dust the flour over the cabbage; stir carefully with a wooden spoon, and add a half pint of milk, a half teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper. Stand this on the back part of the stove to simmer for ten minutes; send to the table.

Scalloped Cabbage

Prepare the cabbage according to the preceding recipe. Turn it into a baking-dish, cover the top with fine bread-crumbs, and bake in a quick oven twenty minutes.

Cabbage, Russian Style

Select a hard head of cabbage and cut it into halves. Shave it down as you would for cold slaw. Put the shreds into very cold water to soak for one or two hours; drain; put into a kettle of boiling salted water and boil, uncovered, fifteen minutes; drain in a colander. Return the cabbage to the kettle, add a half pint of good cream, a half teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper. Push the kettle to the back part of the stove to simmer gently for ten minutes. Serve in a shallow dish; garnish with triangular pieces of toast.

Charleston Cabbage

1 small hard head cabbage

2 tablespoonfuls sugar

4 tablespoonfuls vinegar

1/2 pint thick cream

4 tablespoonfuls olive oil

1 teaspoonful salt

1 saltspoonful pepper

1 egg

Cut the cabbage into eighths; soak in cold water for one hour; then put it into an uncovered kettle of boiling salted water; boil rapidly for twenty minutes. While this is boiling, beat the egg until light; add to it the cream. Put the oil and vinegar into a saucepan, mix, and add the sugar, salt and pepper; stir constantly over the fire until it reaches the boiling-point. Then stir it quickly into the egg and cream. Lay the cabbage carefully in this sauce; put it over the fire until very hot, and serve.