The plants must now be set out in their summer quarters as soon as possible, the "incurveds "and the finer-rooted varieties being given the warmest and driest positions. Well-sharpened hazel sticks, 5-6 ft. long, are best for staking; they should be inserted, after watering, in a south-west position, as most winds blow from that quarter. Tying should follow quickly on the staking, the raffia being passed once round the stick to prevent slipping. Afterwards all is routine work - watering, tying, spraying, stopping, disbudding, and feeding. The latter should not be necessary in most seasons till at least the middle of August, with the compost recommended; but in the hot dry seasons it may be necessary to start earlier. The colour of the foliage will reveal the plant's condition; if it alters to a yellowish-green, and the foliage becomes smaller, feeding is undoubtedly necessary. Little but often, and in as varied a form as possible, is productive of the best results. Guano, liquid manure, cow manure for hot dry soil, soot, any good chemical manure as advertised for Chrysanthemums (always mixing the latter with three or four times its bulk of soil), will provide a good range of "feed" or diet. The foliage should be kept solid and firm, and of a good colour at all times. Occasionally, in cold wet summers, some varieties, from no apparent cause, will go almost yellow; as a rule, a dose of sulphate of iron - 1 oz. to 1 gal. of water - will cure this. When stopping, care should be taken to take out merely the tip of the plant; some varieties are very sensitive to hard stopping, and in any case the breaks are stronger from a small stop. Weakly growths should always be removed; they are useless, and any labour spent on them is money thrown away. If earwigs are prevalent, pots filled with hay should be placed on top of the sticks and examined every day.