This section is from the book "A Dictionary Of Modern Gardening", by George William Johnson, David Landreth. Also available from Amazon: The Winter Harvest Handbook: Year Round Vegetable Production Using Deep Organic Techniques and Unheated Greenhouses.
(Ribes).
1. Black Grape.
2. Black Naples, largest and best.
3. Common Black.
4. Russian Green.
1. Common Red.
2. Red Dutch, large and good.
3. Knight's Large Red, largest.
4. Knight's Sweet Red, large, and not so acid as other red varieties.
5. Knight's Early Red.
6. Champagne.
7. Striped-fruited - berries marked with red and white stripes. S. Striped-leaved. 9. Rock Currant.
1. Common White.
2. White Dutch, largest and best.
3. Pearl White.
4. Speary's White.
Any fertile garden soil suits them.
The best shoots for propagating from are those that are fully ripened, and not too strong. They are first to be deprived of about two or three inches of the point, and cut into lengths of ten inches or a foot, according to the size and strength of the shoots.
Then, with a sharp knife, divest each shoot of the whole of its buds, excepting three or four nearest the top of the cutting, which must be left to form the branches of the future plant.
Rubbing off the buds is not sufficient; they require to be picked out, or pared very close, to prevent them from throwing up suckers, which materially affect the growth of the plants, and rob the fruiting branches of most of their nourishment, when not displaced in proper time. The small buds towards the base of the cutting are always the most troublesome in this respect, and great care should be taken to remove them effectually before the cutting is inserted in the ground.
Immediately underneath the part which the lowest bud occupied make a clean horizontal cut, without displacing any portion of the bark, and the cutting is then complete.
A small spot is next to be dug and got ready for them, and if it can be obtained in a situation that is rather shaded than otherwise, so much the better.
The cuttings are then to be inserted in rows a foot apart, six or eight inches asunder, and two or three inches deep, and the earth firmly pressed around them, either with the hand, or by placing one foot on each side of the row, and treading it from one end to the other. - Gard. Chron.
Observe, those designed for common standards should be trained up to a twelve or fifteen inch stem, then encourage them to branch out all round at that height to form a full head, for if suffered to branch away immediately from the bottom, they overspread the ground, that no crops can grow near them, as well as appear unsightly, and render it inconvenient to do the necessary work - thin the branches to moderate distances.
All the sorts are too apt to send up suckers from the roots; each sucker forming a proper plant is the most expeditious mode of propagating. They may be taken up in autumn, winter, or spring, with roots, or even such as are without fibres will succeed; planting them either in nursery-rows for a year or two, or such as are tall and strong may be planted at once, where they are to remain, observing to train the whole for the purposes intended, as directed for the cuttings, and they will form bearing plants after one or two years' growth.
The propagating by suckers is by some objected to, alleging they incline to run greatly to suckers again: there is, however, but little foundation in this, for it is peculiar to these shrubs, let them be raised either by seeds, cuttings, or any other method.
 
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