This section is from the book "A Dictionary Of Modern Gardening", by George William Johnson, David Landreth. Also available from Amazon: The Winter Harvest Handbook: Year Round Vegetable Production Using Deep Organic Techniques and Unheated Greenhouses.
Thirty-five species. Chiefly stove evergreen shrubs and trees. Cuttings. Loam, peat, and leaf-mould, in equal proportions.
E. crista-galli. Coral Tree. Is one of the most beautiful of this genus, and its cultivation in the open air is thus detailed by that excellent gardener, Mr. W. P. Ayres: -
"Cuttings of the young wood, taken off with a heel when about three inches long, and planted round the edge of a large pot, or singly in small ones, in sandy peat, and plunged in a brisk bottom heat, will root in the course of a few weeks. This is suitable for those cuttings which are taken from plants in neat, but cuttings from the open air will not bear such treatment. The transition to a close warm frame appears too much for them, and they become paralyzed; but if after being planted they are placed in a moderately warm frame until the cuttings are cicatrized, and then removed to a brisk bottom heat, they will root with great freedom.
"After the cuttings are rooted, they must be repotted into rich light compost, and encouraged to make robust growth. As it is indispensable that the plants should become strong before they are planted out, they must have at least one season's cultivation in pots; the flower-buds must also be removed as soon as they are perceptible, so that the whole organizable matter may be concentrated in the young plant.
"In the spring of the second season, the ground may be prepared for the reception of the plants, and as the preservation in winter of the roots of all tender plants depends as much upon the dryness as upon the warmth of the soil, it will be advisable to give them an elevated but not an exposed situation; and where the subsoil is not porous, make it so artificially. Therefore, where it is necessary, excavate the natural 6oil to the depth of two feet, and in the bottom place a layer of brick rubbish at least six inches thick; over that lay some small sticks, leaves, or moss, to prevent the soil from getting into the drainage, and in filling up, raise the bed six inches above the level of the surrounding soil - with a compost consisting of rich turfy loam, leaf-mould, and turfy peat, in the proportion of two parts of the former to one of each of the latter; to which sandstone or porous bricks, broken to the size of large eggs, may be added to the extent of one-eighth of the whole mass. This mixture will never become solid, on the contrary, it will always be permeable to both air and moisture, without any risk of becoming saturated with the latter.
The plants in the first season may be planted eighteen inches apart; but in the third year half of them may be taken out to form a new plantation, and in the fifth or sixth year each plant when in flower will acquire an area of sixteen or twenty square feet. When large specimens for immediate effect are desired, four or five may be placed in juxtaposition.
"The best time to plant them out will be from the last week in May to the middle of June, as the ground will then be a little warm, and the plants will sustain no check.
"Towards the end of October the plants should be cut down, and the crown of each covered with a box, or flower-pot, filled with dry leaves, the whole being spread over with dry peat, leaf-mould,or saw-dust, to the depth of a foot, and then turfed over neatly. The latter will be found advantageous, especially if the sides of the bed have a sharpish inclination, as it will throw off much of the rain that would otherwise soak into the mould, and impair its protecting properties.
"In spring, when the covering is removed, the surface of the bed should be renewed to the depth of the roots with the above compost, the whole being afterwards covered two inches thick with sandy peat or leaf mould. This covering should be continued until the middle of June, or later if the weather requires it. Water during the growing season may be freely administered in dry weather, and if liquid manure is occasionally given it will add to the strength of the plants; but after they are in bloom the less water that falls on the bed the better it will be for the preservation of the roots through the winter." - Gard. Chron. North of the Potomac it will be safer to remove the Erythrina c.-galli in autumn to some sheltered situation, where it may be kept in nearly a dry or dormant state until the spring, when it may again occupy its position in the open air.
 
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