Wall-Trees And Espaliers

Mr. Mark-ham says that of these, "The requisite pruning is merely to thin the branches where they are too thick, and to admit plenty of light and air. The points of any branches that indicate too luxuriant a growth are pinched out. The tree will show how young bearing wood is procured, when the branches get too long, or begin to have a naked appearance. For covering the fig in winter, a double thickness of old mats is advisable, with a little mulching; a wide coping on the wall is very essential, and a canvas covering drawn over them at night in the early part of their growth is of great benefit to them." - Gard. Chron.

The Mode of Bearing is very peculiar, and influences the pruning, or rather non-pruning, which is to be preferred. The fig, observes Mr. Loudon, "bears, and in warmer climates brings to maturity in every year, two successive and distinct crops of fruit, each crop being produced on a distinct set of shoots. The shoots formed by the first or spring sap put forth figs at every eye as soon as the sap begins to flow again in July and August. These figs (which form the second crop of the year) ripen, in their native climate, during the course of the autumn; but rarely if ever come to perfection in England; where, though they cover the branches in great abundance at the end of that season, they perish and fall off with the first severe frosts of winter. The shoots formed by the second flow of sap, commonly called midsummer shoots, put forth figs in like manner at every eye, but not until the first flow of sap in the following spring. These last mentioned figs, which form the first crop of each year, ripen in warmer climates during the months of June and July, but not in this country before September or October." - Enc. Gard.

Fig-House

If a hot-house be devoted to this fruit, as it well deserves, good proportions, according to Mr. Markham, are "thirty-three feet long, fourteen feet wide, and eleven feet high at the back, trellised with wire two inches from the wall. The trees on this wall to be fan-trained; the roots walled in as recommended for the open wall, excepting that the spaces are to be narrower, being two feet wide and two and a half deep; the path leading through the house to rest on this partition wall. Between this path and the front, may be a border for small standards and circular-trained trees, ranging from three to five feet high, all walled in with rough stones, for the same purpose as already stated. The sorts may be the Nerii; Brown Ischia; large White Genoa; and Kennedy's Fig, but the greater part the Nerii. Prune in 15 the latter part of February; but this is a very trifling operation where they have been properly attended to in summer, being only to cut out here and there a superfluous shoot, or to shorten one back to any naked or unfurnished part, in order to procure a supply of young shoots. Then have the whole forked over between the trees, giving them a good watering. Small fires are then to be lighted, keeping the temperature at 50°, and syringing morning and evening with tepid water.

Air is to be given plentifully in fine weather, and when the fruit begins to grow, the temperature raised to 55°, then to 60°, and so on progressively about the same as for vines. For the first six or seven weeks water only in such quantities to keep the soil moderately moist, but afterwards more freely.

"When the fruit is about half grown, commence watering freely every morning, and generally about twice a week, with liquid manure. As soon as the young shoots have attained the length of four or five inches, their points are to be pinched out; this shoot is the 'second crop wood' for the latter part of summer or autumn, according as the forcing was commenced early or late. During the growth of the second crop of fruit, the tree produces a second shoot from three to six inches long, which, when properly ripened, contains the crop in the embryo state through the winter for the following spring. A short time before the first crop of fruit is ripe, the watering overhead is discontinued and abundance of air given. As soon as practicable, the watering overhead is to be resumed in every part of the house where the fruit is not approaching maturity. The succession of fruit generally lasts about four months.

"The winter management is merely to keep the borders moderately dry, and to prevent frost from entering." - Gard.. Chron.

Forcing In Pots

"For this purpose," says Mr. Markham, "the plants should be examined as early in the autumn or winter as possible, and those plants that have got their roots much matted together should have them reduced, and potted in sweet maiden loam, ready for the spring-forcing in January or February, as they may be wanted. The pots should be plunged in a half-spent tan or leaf bed, either in a pit or forcing-house. If neither of these can be had, prepare a small bed of leaves and manure, and place a deep frame over it, plunging the plants to such a depth as to enable the roots to have 8° or 10° more heat than the tops. By doing this the roots are put in action first, which causes the embryo fruit to come forth in such a strong healthy manner as will ensure a good crop. After the fruit is fairly shown, the plants may then be removed to any forcing-house where they can have plenty of light and air. If they can be plunged in gentle heat, so much the better. It should always be borne in mind that the fig, in its growing state, is almost an aquatic, therefore little danger is to be apprehended from over-watering, but serious mischief may arise from not attending to this; for if ever the soil gets thoroughly dry when the fruit is far advanced, some evil will be sure to result." - Gard. Chron.

The Temperature borne by the fig advantageously is very high. Even when ranging from 90° to 110° during the day, and never lower at night than 70°, though some varieties grow too luxuriantly, yet the Large White ripened both its spring and autumn produce, and Mr. Knight thus obtained from the same plants eight crops in twelve months.