By Pipings

In selecting the grass (stems) lor pipings, strong and short jointed shoots should be chosen. The piping should be cut off with a sharp knife immediately below the second or third joint from the top of the shoot, and it may then be readily disengaged from the two leaves which surround its base, and which are commonly termed a sheath. The tips of the leaves should be shortened for the sake of convenience, otherwise when planted it will be difficult to prevent the hand glass from resting upon them, or from disturbing them whenever it is removed. As the pipings are prepared, they should be put into a basin or pan filled with water to prevent them from flagging before they are planted. For this and similar delicate operations the cool hours of the evening are most suitable. In planting the pipings they should be pressed firmly into the soil to the depth of about half an inch, leaving them an inch and a half apart every way; and after being properly secured, they should be gently watered through a fine rose to settle the mould closely round the stems, and as soon as the leaves become thoroughly dry, a bell glass should be placed over them. The glass should be pressed lightly into the mould, to prevent as much as possible the ingress of air.

In sunny days, the bed should be shaded from seven to eight o'clock in the morning until five or six in the evening ; and if there is any appearance of damp amongst the pipings, the glasses should be occasionally taken off to allow them to dry, and all plants so attacked should be immediately removed. It is very probable that the pipings will not require to be watered until the greater part of them have taken root; should watering, however, be necessary, the leaves must be allowed to become dry before the glasses are replaced. As soon as roots are formed the hand glasses should be slightly raised on one side, and may be gradually withdrawn. The young plants, after being by degrees inured to the sun, may be transplanted six inches apart in an open bed previously prepared for the purpose, in which situation they may remain until required for planting finally in the beds, where they are to bloom. - Gard. Chron.

Soil And Manure

Sandy turfy loam, such as the top spit of an old pasture, mixed with one-fourth its bulk of old cow-dung, makes a soil very beneficial to this flower. Woollen rags mixed with the soil are also strongly recommended.

Bed

Raise the bed six inches above the soil around, and formed like a pitched roof, thus: The compost should be at least a foot deep. Plant in rows, and twelve inches apart each way.

Fig. 128.

After Culture

"The first thing to be attended to will be to thin out the flower-stems, in order to throw more strength into those which are left. When the plants are weak all the stems should be removed but one, and on a plant of moderate size not more than three should be retained. These again should be looked over, and the lateral flower-buds removed from them, leaving only the terminal bud and the next but one below it; provided these are perfect in form, all the rest may be pinched off. In tying up the stems of pinks and other plants of this class great judgment is required; in fact, delay is better in this instance than too much haste. If tied too high at first, the stems, as they lengthen, are prevented by the ligature from growing erect, and become crooked, or perhaps snap off at the joints. They should, therefore, be looked to every day where practicable; and if there is the least appearance of any flower-stem having become cramped the tie should immediately be cut loose. The safest way is to secure the bush to the flower stick, to which the stem should be loosely tied so as to allow it perfect liberty to slide through as it increases in height. These ligatures, when the plants have acquired their full growth, can be easily removed, and the plants tied close without further hazard.

When the forwardest blooms begin to expand, hoops should be fixed across the bed to support mats or any other lighter material that will serve to protect the flowers either from the rain or from the rays of the sun. They need not, however, be shaded earlier than nine o'clock in the morning, or later than five or six in the evening; but if there is the least appearance of a wet night, they had better be covered before leaving them. Should the season be dry, they will require regular watering between the rows; rain or pond water, where procurable, is always to be preferred. A little clay or stiff loam placed in the form of a margin round the edge of the bed would serve as a basin, and prevent the water from escaping into the path or alley." - Gard. Chron.