Nasturtium. Fourteen species. Green-house hardy and half-hardy annuals, and evergreen twiners. T. brachyceras and T. tuberosum are half-hardy tuberous-rooted perennials. The green-house and half-hardy species increase by cuttings, and require a light rich soil. The annuals, seeds only, and common soil. The tuberous-rooted, cuttings, loam, and peat. Some of the species require particular treatment, as follows: -

T. Tricolorum

Mr. Falconer, gardener to A. Palmer, Esq., of Cheam, enters fully into its cultivation. He says that - " the soil best suited to it is a mixture of loam, peat, and sand, with a small portion of soot; this mixture to be exposed to the influence of the sun from May until time to plant the tubers. About the latter end of June, or as soon as the decay of the stem and ripening of the seed show that the circulation of the sap has ceased, turn out the tubers from the pots, and having carefully removed the soil, put the tubers in flower pans upon a shelf in a dry room. About the beginning of September they produce their new stems: let them remain until they have lengthened from twelve to fifteen inches. Having well drained a No. 12 pot, fill it up with the compost to within four inches of the top, then place the tuber in the centre of the pot, and coil the stem or stems around, carefully filling up with the compost until about two inches of the stem are left above the soil. After potting, place the pots on a stage out of doors, there to remain till the middle of October, they are then removed to the front of a cool green-house, exposed to as much light and air as can be given to them.

With respect to watering, keep them rather moist than otherwise: when out of doors they are freely exposed to rain. The early flower-buds should be picked off until the space allotted is covered, the object being to have the greatest quantity of bloom at one time. When necessary, in their early growth, they may be stopped to give a supply of laterals. At all times they should have plenty of air and light, more especially after they show their tlower-buds, for the joints will be shorter, and consequently the flowers more close together. When in bloom, care must be taken to shade from the midday sun, which will prolong their season of plenty: take off the weak laterals that are not likely to flower, where about two inches long; if with a heel so much the better. Any time from February till May fill the pot half full of crocks, then with a mixture of peat and sand, till within two inches of the top, fill up with silver sand, and water with a line rose to settle it. Then dibble in the cuttings all round, within one inch of the rim, leaving about half an inch of the cutting above the sand. Place the pot on a shelf in the front of the green-house, keep the sand constantly moist, taking care that the cuttings are always erect.

In the course of two months many of them will throw up shoots from under the sand. The pot should then be removed to a shady situation out of doors. When the stems decay, do not disturb the sand, but water sparingly. In October let them be placed in the green-house, when all that have made small tubers will grow. It is from these plants the best cuttings are obtained in the spring. In the following May, turn the whole ball out of the pot, in a warm situation in the open ground. After they have finished their growth, take them up and sift the ball through a fine sieve, carefully picking out the tubers. They are then treated in all respects as the older tubers, and will make fine flowering plants the following spring. The seeds before sowing should be soaked in milk and water twenty-four hours, and the outer shell carefully removed ; they will under this treatment grow much sooner and with greater certainty. They should remain in the seed pot until after they have formed a tuber. A small stick can be placed against each plant, to which it will climb, and it serves to indicate the place of the tuber when the stem is dead.

Many seeds will remain twelve months before vegetating." - Gard. Chron.

T. moritzianum requires very similar treatment. Dr. Lindley directs that - "After this plant has bloomed, water should be gradually withheld from it, and the pot containing the tubers should be stored away in some dry situation, until the season for starting it into growth returns. The tubers should then be repotted and placed in a gentle heat." - Gard. Chron.

T. majus is the Nasturtium of our gardens. "The flowers and young leaves are frequently eaten in salads; they have a warm taste, like the common Cress, hence the name of Nasturtium. The flowers are also used as a garnish to dishes. The berries are gathered green and pickled, in which state, they form an excellent substitute for capers.

"It should be planted on a warm border in April, having soaked the seed in warm water for twelve hours. The usual mode of planting, is in hills three feet apart each way, four seeds in a hill; two strong plants are sufficient to remain; when they commence running, place brush around them to climb on. When the berries attain full growth, but whilst yet tender, they are plucked with the foot stalk attached, and preserved in vinegar." - Rural Register.