Should the weather be hot and dry, late crops that are still swelling and near the colouring point should have another good watering, in order to keep them in healthy activity. Should a succession of damp dull days occur, keep a little heat in the pipes, so as to prevent a stagnation of damp air, so undesirable for Vines in all stages of growth, but most especially so when nearing maturity. Leave a little air on all night and increase it early in the morning to prevent moisture from condensing on the bunches. Muscats that do not appear to be colouring satisfactorily, should have their bunches exposed to as much light as possible, by tying aside a few of the leaves that shade them. We have always found this the most effectual way of colouring Muscats. After they are perfectly coloured, the shade of the leaves is again desirable. Keep ripe Grapes cool and dry. Wasps and flies are often very troublesome in Vineries this month. The best way is to keep them out altogether, and this can be done by fixing hexagon netting over the ventilation openings. Give Vines from which the fruit is all cut an occasional syringing, to keep the foliage clean and healthy.

If there are any Vines that have their roots further from the surface of the border than is desirable, remove all the soil down to the roots and place a layer 6-inches deep of turfy loam, with a third of horse-dung and a little bone-meal in it, over them: such feeding entices them nearer the surface of the borders. Indeed, all borders of any standing are the better of being dealt with more or less in the same way every year. Vine roots that are near the surface, and not over 2 feet deep, always ripen and survive the winter better than when deeper, and this is a condition of immense importance, in early forcing especially. All pot Vines intended for starting in November and onwards till Christmas, should now be well ripened and almost ready to shed their leaves. If they are not in this condition, expose them to full sun and a circulation of dry warm air, so as to ripen them as early as possible, but by all means avoid the starving into ripening process. Those that are well ripened may be removed outdoors to a cool place. Young Vines planted in spring will have filled their allotted space. If they in any case have not done so, encourage them still with heat and moisture, and allow them to make all growth that there is space for without crowding.

Supernumeraries should not be allowed to make any additional growth after the middle or end of the month, but be exposed as much as possible to light, in order to mature their growth.

Grape Forcing #1

We would reiterate former directions in reference to all Vines from which the Grapes are gathered, and urge the necessity of keeping the foliage healthy and active to the last. Give them occasional washings with the engine, and see that the borders are not dry Late Grapes intended to hang late on the Vine should be examined, and if any of the bunches are likely to be too thick, lose no time in removing some of the berries. It is best to thin sufficiently at first, but it sometimes occurs that the rule is not applied to all bunches, and the sooner the defect is remedied the better. If this month should be dry, all Vines swelling off crops should be well watered either with liquid manure, or thorough mulchings of rich manure. Many Vines are starved for want of water in warm summers. Leave air on all vineries throughout the night. For night ventilation we prefer closing the top lights and opening the bottom ones. Muscats, even in favoured localities as to climate, should still have a little fire-heat at night and on cold cloudy days. As soon as any crop shows first signs of colouring, give inside borders a good soaking; and the same applies to outside borders if the weather be dry. With a good mulching, a good soaking will carry them safely to maturity.

Black Hamburgs should be coloured as slowly as possible at this hot season, and the vinery should never be closely shut up. Look over all Vines twice weekly, and remove all lateral growths as they present themselves. Young Vines intended to bear next year should be stopped when they reach to near the top of the house, and their lateral growths be limited to one leaf. Should they, however, be very vigorous, and there be any chance of their starting the buds on the main stem, let the laterals make two or more leaves for a time. Permanent Vines intended to be cut back will be all the better and stronger for being allowed to cover all the roof with side growths; for in proportion to the top growth will be the extent of roots produced. If pot - Vines for fruiting early next year have done well, they will now be strong canes with well-developed buds, and the bottom parts of them changing to a brownish hue. Give them an increased circulation of air, and do not let them make any fresh lateral growth. See that, now the pots are full of roots, they never get too dry, and expose them as much as possible to sunshine, so that the wood gets thoroughly ripened as early as possible.