In this department there will now be abundance of work; and if the weather keeps free from severe frost, every effort to get ground-work forward should be made: manuring, trenching, draining wet cold land, etc, are some of the operations most pressing. When such work is forward now it will tell favourably in spring. Before manure is wheeled on the ground, it is well to make arrangements for next year's supplies, at the same time taking into consideration what has been or is now in the ground. Changing the crops is well known to be of primary importance; and notes on paper, with a sketch of the garden, will do much to simplify the management, as well as do justice to the ground. Manure is easily wheeled out on frosty mornings, and it should be kept compact in the heaps and ridges; and to prevent it losing its virtues, a coating of earth should be thrown over it. When manure is rough, it may be turned in two spades deep; and if well decayed, one spade below the surface answers well. Trenching is seldom performed too often, and when done now the surface should be left roughly in ridges to get the benefit of frost. If ground is light and the subsoil heavy, it may be improved by bringing up a little from the bottom to the surface. A sandy bottom can also be made to assist a heavy surface.

Caution is necessary, as a season's crop might be much injured by injudicious management of subsoils. When draining is performed, it is necessary to go deeper than trenching ever will in the soil. A fall to a main drain or ditch is necessary; and if a tank can be placed at the outlet, in which water can be stored, it might be invaluable when seasons were extra dry. Broccoli, which may be high in the stems, can be laid down facing the north. Opinions vary much on this practice. When stems are weakly drawn up they are in danger of severe frost. Ground in a warm sheltered position may be prepared for a sowing of early Peas and Beans: a portion of each may be sown from the middle to the last week of the month. If they escape vermin, a good early crop may be secured. If sown near the surface, and covered with chopped furze or dusted with red-lead, they may escape uninjured. If kindly, light soil is thrown over the seed before they are covered with the ordinary garden-earth, it will do much to help them. Sowing on turf, in boxes, pots, or tiles, and placed in frames during February and March, is now generally preferred to autumn sowings; but many have only the latter system to depend on, and they should be more liberal with the seed than spring and summer sowings.

Sangster's No. 1 and "First Crop" are both good; Mazagan Beans are generally used for early work. To keep up successions of small salading, frequent sowings should be made in boxes and placed in heat till nearly large enough for use, then exposed to fresh air some days before it is cut. American and Golden Cress, which are excellent for winter use, should be protected to keep the leaves crisp and eatable in frosty weather: a batch of Parsley under hoops, or temporarily framed to be protected in severe weather, will be useful. Keep using the strongest first. Endive, Lettuce, Autumn Broccolis, etc, may be taken into sheds for protection in severe weather; turf pits or similar contrivances are very useful for such purposes. In damp, low - lying localities, winter crops suffer severely from damp. It is often necessary to lift Celery with root entire, and store it under protection. A quantity of dry litter should be at hand to throw over the Celery ridges in severe weather, but to be taken off when a thaw sets in. Whenever opportunities occur, the surfaces between Cabbage, Spinach, and other growing crops, should be well stirred.

Seakale forcing will now require attention: where it can be lifted in quantity, and kept in secure quarters to be taken into a house with a little warmth, answers as well as any system. Where covering with warm manure and pots or boxes is still practised, it has to be done cautiously, as changes of weather affect it materially, and burning or sudden chills have to be guarded against. Other means of forcing may be practised, such as a rough box with some soil in the bottom placed near the manure - heap, where tree-leaves or other warm material can be placed over it. 60° is warm enough for forcing Seakale; less heat will bring it on stronger, and better fitted for the table. Rhubarb may be forced along with Seakale, but does better with light and air, while Seakale has to be kept quite dark. Chicory may be placed in a cellar or anywhere to spring its tops for salad. Jerusalem Artichokes, Parsnips, and other crops in the ground, should have litter placed over them. Globe Artichokes should have dry litter, coal-ashes, or some other protection placed round them.

M. T.