Whatever may be left in the way of digging and trenching, preparatory for crops, we need hardly say demands attention without delay. Onion-ground may be about the first to receive its allotted manipulation. After being thoroughly turned over, broken, and well manured, the surface may again receive a preparation with fork, to make it fine and kindly. At one period when we made special efforts to get fine large small-necked Onions, the ground, naturally, was like powder at sowing-time: now we have it like boulders generally (but by adding turf, wood-ashes, and other fertilisers, it gets friable in a greater degree every year), but hope to have an opportunity of thoroughly breaking the surface before the third week of the month, and then sow when weather will allow, and cover with siftings from under potting - bench, or other waste stuff. It is surprising how well Onions finish as to size and quality on such land. A kindly start (in our opinion) is half the battle with most seedlings; therefore we would urge this extra preparation as a speciality, to be dealt with without delay. Sow as early as possible after the 20th, and make the land firm by rolling and treading.

Parsnips and Leeks which are hardy may be put in at end of month; but rather than imprison seeds in battered soil, we would wait, if it was a month later. Beans and Peas may be sown twice at least during the month. Second early kinds, as described in catalogues, may have the preference now; but we know-some good cultivators who sow later kinds at this season, especially the wrinkled Peas, which are generally high in flavour. The best Pea we had last year was The Baron - a splendid cropper, immense pods, and of fine flavour. Telephone and Telegraph were also fine, but barely equalled the former in all points. Peas coming forward in frames, etc., ought to have all the light and air possible - only excluding heavy rains and frost: a trifle of the latter does no harm if the plants have' not been coddled.

Vermin, such as mice, slugs, etc., may be troublesome : red-lead dusted over tops of seedlings, which are not to be eaten (salads generally would be rendered useless), and along with the seed at sowing-time, is a good preventive. Fir-tree oil appears to us to be a very suitable liquid to sprinkle over crops with a fine rose: on plants it is a most effectual destroyer of insects. Sow Broccoli, for an early autumn lot, to succeed late Cauliflower. We often have six small lots of Cauliflower, by sowing at short intervals, and by planting some in sun and others in shade. Brussels Sprouts may also be sown now in a pot or pan for early "Buttons;" but we have found the March sowings of these the best in every sense. Lettuce, Cabbage, Savoys, Kale, Parsley, Spinach, and Radishes may be sown on warm sheltered borders and ridges, formed with their backs to the coldest quarters, very often north and west : near a hedge, in front of a shubbery, or other thicket, are good positions for ridges on which to sow early crops.

Potato-planting may be done if desirable, but will do equally well in March: when ridges have been thrown up 2 feet to 2 1/2 feet wide, and the bottoms broken over, then plant the Potatoes, and cover them with sifted ashes and leaf-mould (a few inches). Turfy soil is also excellent for covering early Potatoes. Garlic and Shallots may now be planted : a long period of growth tells well on their quality. Jerusalem Artichokes may be planted: single rows dividing crops is a profitable method of growing these. Rhubarb divided and planted now will give fine crowns for supply of next year: plenty of manure and abundance of room are of much service to secure large stalks of this most useful esculent. The forcing of herbs, such as Mint, Tarragon, etc, may be done : a pot or two, with a little soil to keep the roots moist, and warmth as one would desire in May, are all that is necessary to grow for early use all common herbs. Sow pinches of Celery twice in the month. Incomparable and its synonyms, Manchester or Leicester Red, Major Clarke's, are all good. Gentle heat, plenty of light, and no checks from drought, are requisite; but often, with every effort and means, "bolting" may take place.

Forcing of Carrots, Radishes, and Potatoes may proceed as means will allow : plenty of light, free soil, air in abundance, and moderate supplies of moisture, will insure success; even when ordinary hotbeds are used for these, the air and light are very necessary. Sow French Beans every twelve to twenty days, as they may be wanted, in pots or pits, etc. Sow Tomatoes for early supplies. Those fruiting may have plenty of manure-water if they are confined at roots. Seakale may be forced now with much ease if warmth (say "milk warm") can be afforded, and air and light excluded. Rhubarb will now be starting naturally, and can be forced anywhere with a little heat, soil thrown over the roots, and moisture given. Asparagus is often forced on floors and other positions in glass structures : a frame placed on leaves, with the roots laid closely therein and covered with a little leaf-mould or any light soil, will answer as well as any system we know of. Mushrooms, whether grown outside on ridges covered with litter, or in proper sheds for the purpose, require nearly the same treatment all the year through - good horse - manure, fresh healthy spawn, and an even temperature, about 50° to 55°. M. T.

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