Force cautiously if the weather be dull and cold. When the trees are in bloom keep the temperature at 50°, and give more or less air daily to create a circulation of dry air about the trees. Take pollen from sorts that produce it freely with a camel-hair brush, and apply it to the blooms of shy setting-sorts, such as Noblesse. There is, however, not much difficulty in securing a good set, provided a steady heat is maintained and cold currents of air are prevented. As soon as the fruit are set, raise the temperature to 55°. On the afternoons of fine days syringe all trees not in bloom; but when it is dull and cold, just sprinkle the floor and walls of the house. Prune and tie in succession-house, dressing them as directed in the case of Vines. If they have had insects about them last season, top-dress the borders with rotten manure, unless in the case of young trees growing vigorously, which should not be manured. Start the second Peach-house by the end of the month, beginning with 50° at night, unless when very cold. As soon as the young growths in early houses can be rubbed off, go over them and remove a portion of them, completing the operation of disbudding at not less than three times.

A high temperature andmoist atmosphere, when forcing is commenced, have a tendency to force on the wood too much in advance of the blooms, in which case Peaches never set so well, because their organs of fructification are weak. When the fruit sets in clusters, go over them immediately the blooms are shed and thin them off, leaving only one in a place, and always leaving the largest. The thinning, like disbudding, should be done at intervals, and not all at once.

Peach Forcing #1

Where the fruit have set thickly in early houses, let them be partially thinned, removing all those that are in clusters, except the largest and best - placed fruit. Disbud the young growths by degrees, removing all fore-right and back buds at the first operation, and completing it at other two intervals of eight or ten days. Should the weather be cold, continue to force, cautiously avoiding high night temperatures: 55° during cold weather, with a few degrees more when mild, is high enough for the present. Give more or less air every day, always putting it on early by degrees and shutting up early with sun-heat. Syringe the trees every fine afternoon at shutting-up time. Where trees are opening their blossoms, keep the air moderately moist, and avoid subjecting the bloom to cold currents of air, and also hard forcing, which, in conjunction with too much moisture, causes the wood-growth to too much precede the blooming and setting process. See that trees having their roots exclusively in inside borders are kept steadily moist.

Prune, tie, and dress succession-houses, top-dressingthe buds, etc, as formerly directed, and thoroughly cleansing the glass and woodwork.

Peach Forcing #2

If the trees in late houses have not been pruned, let the operation be completed without delay. Where trees are under unheated glass, give plenty of air to keep the trees as backward as possible, for if pushed on now they may suffer much from late frosts. Until the fruit have stoned and begun to swell a second time in early houses, do not raise the night temperature in very cold nights above 55°, and 60° degrees when mild. When they have begun to swell, again increase the heat 5°, with 10° or 15° more with sun after shutting up on bright days. Give air early by degrees, and shut up early. Syringe freely all trees not in bloom at shutting-up time. The Peach is a moisture-loving plant, and a dry atmosphere it much dislikes. If the crop of fruit exceed more than one fruit to every square foot on aged trees that are not growing grossly, thin off all superfluous fruit immediately the stoning process is completed. Young trees may be allowed a heavier crop. Keep a watchful eye on the inside border, and do not let the soil become dry. A good plan is to mulch with rotten manure after a good watering.

Where the fruit are set very thickly on succession-trees, thin them partially when the size of Marrow Peas. Where they are in clusters reduce them to one, always leaving the largest. Disbud superfluous growths by degrees also, always leaving a good bud at the base of each fruit-bearing shoot, and thinning them partially along the whole shoots, completing the operation at three intervals of eight or ten days. Wherever green- fly appears, fumigate with tobacco-smoke.

Peach Forcing #3

Where the early crops are all gathered, give inside borders, if dry, a good soaking of water, and keep the house as cool as it can be kept by freely airing it; look over the trees, and cut out all shoots that are not required for next season. Then give the trees a good washing with the engine, and repeat it three times weekly to prevent red-spider, and keep the foliage otherwise healthy. In houses where the fruit are ripe and ripening, keep them dry and freely aired. Wherever any of the fruit are shaded by the leaves, push them aside so that the sun can act upon the fruit, and colour and ripen them properly. When the fruit are stoned and swelling off, let both the air and borders be kept regularly moist, using manure-water in the case of established trees that are in full bearing and not making gross growths. Syringe every fine afternoon; shut up early with sun-heat, and do not let the temperature fall below 65° for the night. See that green-fly does not get a footing in late houses, and tie in the growths, and thin the fruit and wood sufficiently in time, if either are yet too thick. It is a mistake to tax the energies of the tree by allowing a crowd of fruit to get to a large size, and then to thin. See to young trees that have been planted this or last season.

Push back shoots that are stronger than the rest, so as to properly balance the growth all over the trees. Avoid crowding in their case also.