Where early Peaches are set and have cast their blossoms, the night temperature may be advanced to 50°, and to 55° by the end of the month, with 5° to 10° more by day. Syringe the trees every fine day, and give more or less air daily. See that the inside border does not become too dry, especially that part of it about the hot-water pipe. Disbud the young growths by degrees, ultimately leaving a strong bud at the base of each fruit-bearing shoot and the leader. Where the fruit has set in abundance, the trees may be relieved at once of all fruits that are malformed, and those that are on the right, left, and north sides of the shoots, but always leaving plenty on which to "come and go." Go over trees in bloom in the middle of the day, and impregnate them either by dispersing the pollen with a fine brush or by a few raps of the hand on the trellis. If the weather be bright, they set equally well when the pollen is dispersed, with water applied with a syringe, for the operation, so far as the cultivator is concerned, is purely a mechanical one. Shut up a succession-house, and keep the temperature from falling below 45° during cold nights, increasing the temperature to 50° by the time the bloom is opening.

All trees in later houses should now be pruned and tied, the borders top-dressed, and well watered if dry. In the case of young trees planted last year, avoid the too common practice of cutting them back; if the shoots are ripening, leave them their whole length. The furnishing of the tree with young wood can easily be regulated by timely and judicious disbudding, by which so many canker - producing wounds are avoided, and the trees increased into size and a state of bearing in half the time taken in the cutting - and -slashing-back system. "Where young trees are to be planted or root-pruned, lose no time in completing the operation, if not already done.

Peach Forcing #1

Should the weather be cold, do not increase the temperatures recommended last month for the early trees. Peaches should never be subjected to what may be termed hard forcing until after the fruit are stoned. Syringe the trees with tepid water every fine afternoon, and otherwise keep the air genially moist. Where the fruit have set thickly, thin off all the smallest first. Disbud the young growths by degrees, ultimately leaving, in the case of well-furnished trees, a strong bud at the base of last year's shoot, and of course the terminal bud. Give air every fine day, and shut up early, so that the thermometer runs up 10° or 15° above the temperature proper for the night, which should not exceed 60°. Let the inside border be kept moist. Give trees in bloom a free circulation of air when not frosty. Avoid the application of much fire-heat, and be satisfied with 55° as a night temperature. Houses started this month may have a few degrees more heat to begin with than is judicious earlier in the season. If any trees remain unpruned and untied in late houses, complete such work without delay.

Keep the latest still cool and well aired, but see that all borders under glass are well moistened; for if allowed to get too dry, the trees may drop their buds before they expand.

Peach Forcing #2

The night temperature of the early house should not yet exceed 55° when cold and 60° when mild; with a dull cold day temperature of 5° or 8° more. Syringe the trees with tepid water when the house is shut up, and let the temperature rise to 75° for a time. See that the inside border is kept moist; and if the trees be old and require stimulating, water alternately with guano and dung water. As soon as the fruit are stoned, 5° more heat may be applied. Thin the fruit to about one to 10 inches or a foot apart, according to the vigour of the trees. Very heavy crops of early Peaches are never satisfactory - unless, indeed, the trees be young and in the prime of vigour: two fine peaches are certainly to be preferred to three inferior ones. Look carefully over the young growths, and where it cannot be laid in without crowding, thin a portion of it out. Where the fruits are set and the size of large peas, go over them and carefully thin off such as are not in good positions, and where they are in clusters, always leaving the largest and best - shapen ones.

Disbud all advancing trees by degrees, first removing all the front and back buds, ultimately leaving the terminal bud and two or three nearer the base of last year's growth, according to the length and strength of that growth, and the room there is for young shoots: crowding is a great evil. "Whenever greenfly appears, get rid of it at once.

Peach Forcing #3

The earliest Peaches, when stoned and swelling freely, may have the temperature advanced to 65° at night during mild weather, and especially when the house can be shut up with sun-heat; but when cold windy nights occur, 60° is high enough. See that the inside border is properly supplied with water; and in the case of oldish free-bearing trees, apply liquid-manure. Let the moisture of the atmosphere be increased in proportion to light and heat, and syringe the trees freely every fine afternoon at shutting-up time. Examine the trees carefully, and see that they are neither over-cropped nor too thick of young wood, and remove all superfluous growths, so that what is retained and tied to the trellis has plenty of room. Disbud and pinch young wood in succession-houses; thin the fruit also, and do not let greenfly get a footing. We have known Peach crops destroyed in cool houses by April frosts, and means should be taken to prevent this by putting a little heat into the pipes - or where there are no pipes, by partially or wholly covering the glass with canvas.

If mildew appears on trees in any stage of growth, dust them with flower of sulphur.