Autumn and winter fruiting plants swelling off their fruit in various stages will require to be supplied with water often enough and in sufficient quantity to keep the soil steadily moist but not over wet. Colour the water every time with guano, or every alternate watering may be of clear manure-water made of sheep's or deer's dung with a little soot. Keep up a good supply of moisture in the atmosphere when the weather is bright, and syringe lightly over and among the leaves, but avoid wetting the crowns much, or they will get large and unsightly. Give a good supply of air on all favourable occasions, but always shut up with a high moist temperature in the afternoon, and start the fires sufficiently early to prevent the night temperature sinking below 75° at 10 p.m.; it may fall to 70° in the morning. A top-dressing of turfy loam and horse-droppings will be beneficial to all Pines swelling off fruit, first stripping off a few leaves from the collars of the plants. Let all fruit now colouring have a free circulation of dry warm air, and keep them comparatively dry at the root, avoiding, however, the starving process, by which fine juicy Pines are never produced.

When more are ripe at one time than are required, remove a portion of them with their pots and foliage entire to a dry fruit-room, where they will keep for a long time at this season. That portion of the stock of Queens intended for early fruiting next season will not now require so much water at the roots, particularly in the colder and more sunless localities. All syringing of these overhead should be entirely discontinued, and the atmosphere should be less moist. The night temperature where fire-heat is required should not now range over 65°. If these are induced to grow under conditions the opposite of the above, they will continue to grow and be more likely to miss fruiting when they are required to fruit. Those plants that are not so forward, and that are intended for a succession to those just referred to, may be encouraged to grow more freely for a few weeks, or until they have well filled their pots with roots. Let them at the same time be freely aired in fine days and not kept over moist. The early part of this season has in some localities been too sunless and wet for getting Pines intended for early starting to make a good growth, and if the autumn be fine, advantage should be taken of it to get a sturdy well-matured growth.

All suckers on plants that have recently yielded fruit should now be potted for a succession batch of young plants. Potted at this date, 6-inch pots are large enough for wintering Queens, unless, indeed, the suckers are of extra size, when larger pots should be used. In potting these, select a rather light but very fibry soil, and mix a little bone-meal and soot with it; a 6-inch pot full of each of these manures to a barrowful of soil is enough. Pot the suckers firmly, and plunge them in a bottom-heat of 85° with a night temperature of 70° until they strike root, when 5° less of top and bottom heat will be sufficient. Avoid crowding these if they are to be wintered where plunged, and keep them near the glass, free from drip and otherwise dry. Should the weather be very bright after they are potted, shade them with some thin material for a short time. Give air freely when they begin to grow.

Pine Forcing #1

Early-potted suckers will now be well rooted and established; and, where there are light pine pits, any of them that are likely to become pot-bound by February may have a shift into pots a size larger, and be encouraged to grow for the next month. This is especially desirable if there is a scarcity of stock for ripening fruit next autumn, for these early suckers, if not overshifted, can be got into fruit for next autumn. In ordinary cases, where these remarks do not apply, the night temperature for well - rooted suckers should not range higher than from 60° to 65° according as the nights are cold or mild. The bottom-heat should not range higher than from 75° to 80°; and with the decline of sunshine and heat, the moisture, both in the soil and air, requires to be lessened. Succession stock intended for starting in January keep in a comparative state of rest for the next three months; 60° at night is heat sufficient for these, with a bottom-heat the same as recommended for established suckers. Give air by day when the temperature exceeds 70 , so that it does not rise to an exciting degree.

It is seldom that, in beds of tan or leaves, these require water at the root throughout the winter; and if the plunging material is not resting firmly against the pots and reaching to their rims, it should be made to do so now, for the less water they require the better, and if loosely plunged they are more likely to become over dry. This is especially applicable to those having pipes under the tan or leaves. Where fruit are swelling off keep the atmosphere with the temperature ranging at 70° at night.

Shut these up early in the afternoon with sun heat, so that the temperature for a time reaches to 85°. Attend carefully to these with water, and never allow them to become over dry, but just keep the soil steadily moist, and water with weak guano water when they require any. See that they have a steady bottom-heat of about 85°. When there are no pipes for bottom-heat, see that the heat in the bed does not decline suddenly, as it often does towards the end of this month; and if it does decline, fork in some fresh tan, and replunge the pots to their rims in it. Suckers of smooth Cayennes and other winter sorts that are sufficiently advanced should be detached from the parent plants and potted, and otherwise treated as directed for suckers last month. Ripe fruit, if removed to a dry room, will keep in good condition for weeks on the plants at this season.