About the middle or end of this month is a good time to pot a second batch of suckers from plants that have recently ripened fruit. For Queens 6-inch pots, and for strong suckers of strong-growing sorts 7-inch pots will be large enough. Select, if possible, a rather light turfy loam, adding a 7-inch potful of bone-meal to each barrow-load of soil. Pot firmly and plunge in a bottom-heat of 90°, giving the young plants plenty of room, and keeping them within two feet or so of the glass. Very little shade will be required for newly-potted suckers at the end of the month. Keep the air moist and the pit rather close till roots are formed, when more air should be given. Suckers potted early last month or in the end of July will be growing freely, and will require to be kept steadily moist at the root, and will do with more air and all the sun they can get. If for convenience they have been plunged thickly, let them have more room before they get crowded. These, as well as newly-potted suckers, may be lightly dewed with a fine syringe at shutting-up time on fine days. All Queens intended for starting early next season should now have their pots well filled with roots, and be otherwise well matured. Give them no more water than is enough to prevent their getting a check.

The minimum night temperature for these should drop to 65° by the end of the month. All syringing of these should now be discontinued. Encourage such as are not so forward, and that are to succeed the earliest, to grow freely all through this month, until they too are strong and have thoroughly filled their pots with roots. But as the daylight is now fast decreasing, avoid a forcing temperature at night, or the plants will become drawn. Smooth Cayennes and other late sorts more recently shifted into their fruiting - pots should be kept moderately moist at the root, and have a good supply of moisture in the air. In the case of these especially, avoid all extremes that would be likely to check them and be the cause of their starting before making a considerable fresh growth early in spring. Let the night temperature in mild weather range to 70° when the weather is warm, with a few degrees less when cold. Shut them up early in the afternoon, so that the heat for a short time stands about 80°, and give a little air in the morning when it exceeds 75°. All fruit now swelling off should have a temperature of 70° at night. Water them with guano-water in a weak state every time they require watering.

Keep the bottom-heat from 85° to 90°, and see that the air is kept genially moist. In fine bright weather the syringe may be used several times a-week; but avoid wetting the crowns, or they are apt to grow to an unsightly size. Give all fruit colouring a free circulation of dry warm air, but do not dry them off severely at the root. Remove any that have to be kept for a time after ripening to some cool dry place with an even temperature.

Pine Forcing #1

Such an exceptional season as has been experienced calls for practice of a somewhat exceptional order. In the case of plants intended to fruit early in the year, or, it may be, started into fruit by the end of December, it may be necessary to keep them both drier and warmer than usual to get them into a condition that will insure their starting after being rested awhile. Owing to the very wet and sunless summer, the growth of these plants is very likely to be soft and immature, and a drier and warmer atmosphere will, for the next month, so far rectify the deficiency. Avoid, however, now that the nights are getting long, a higher night temperature than 65°; but keep them dry at the root, and freely ventilate on fine days when they occur. See, however, that the pots are plunged firmly to the rim, and that their bottoms have a good layer of the plunging material between them and the pipes. Keep a temperature of 70° in houses where fruit are swelling off, and let the bottom-heat range as nearly as possible about 90°. Keep the atmosphere moist, but discontinue syringing overhead, and moisten the collars of the plants and surface of the bed instead. If any crowns have a tendency to grow large, screw the centres out of them with a sharp chisel or similar instrument.

See that the soil never gets very dry; just keep it moist, but not wet; and if the tan, or whatever they are plunged in, has shrunk, put on a surfacing up to the rim of the pots. All young-growing stock should now have a lower night heat - 65° is sufficiently high. Keep them moderately moist at the root, and let the air moisture be regulated by the weather and amount of fire-heat required to keep up the heat. Air freely on all calm, mild days, and see that the plants are not standing too thickly together. A score of well-grown sturdy plants will be more satisfactory than thirty attenuated specimens. Suckers recently potted, and that have rooted, should now have full sun and more air, and be kept just damp at the root, but nothing more. Pot more suckers as they become lit. Let ripening fruit have a free circulation of dry warm air about them, and keep them drier now than in summer, as they near maturity.