Those that started into fruit in the early part of winter will this month ripen and be found very useful when other fruits are generally scarce. As soon as they show signs of colouring, give no more water at the root; and if there happen to be a few plants considerably in advance of the rest, it is best to remove them, if possible, to another compartment, where they can have more air and a dry atmosphere. This allows of a moist atmosphere being kept up for the benefit of those that may have yet a few weeks between them and the colouring point; where those ripening cannot be removed, a compromise must take place. Those that started early in February will now be swelling fast. As April is generally a changeable month with cold nights, I do not recommend much increase of temperature over that recommended for March; 75° when the nights are mild, and 70° when cold is sufficient. The forcing should be accelerated by day with sun - heat. They should be shut up soon after three o'clock; get a gentle dewing overhead through a fine rose - avoid heavy syringings, which keep the soil in an unhealthy puddle. The temperature may rise to 90° for an hour or two.

The fires, which should be low during day, require to be quickened early in the afternoon, so as to keep the heat from falling below the point named at 10 p.m. Although the sun has now considerable power, it is not desirable to give a great increase of air. Instead of this, it is better to frequently sprinkle the paths and walls, and keep the steaming-trays full. With such treatment the fruit will swell rapidly. Watering must be carefully attended to, aiming at just keeping the soil moist but not wet; water every time that they require it with guano-water just coloured with guano. The best way is to mix some fresh guano in a pot full of water, making it strong, and to put a little into the water as it is applied to the plants. Put a little into the eva-porating-troughs twice a-week. As soon as suckers appear, remove them all except two on each plant; and if gills or suckers appear on the fruit-stalk, remove them all at once. If bottom-heat is supplied to succession stock shifted in March from tan and leaves, keep a watchful eye on the ground thermometer; and if it goes above 90°, give each pot a shake from side to side, so as to leave an opening all round the pots for the escape of the heat.

Although the roots may not have reached the sides of the pots, and may not be absolutely destroyed with an over-heat, too much bottom-heat causes an over-rapid growth early in the season, which is very undesirable, and the consequence of which, in the absence of full summer light and air, is an attenuated sickly growth. Towards the middle of the month it is generally necessary to water these, as the roots will be taking possession of the fresh soil, which will be getting dry. The inexperienced should carefully examine the state of the soil, and apply water when the soil becomes dry a few inches from the surface of the ball. Rainwater is of course the best, and should always be given at from 80° to 85°. As they show signs of growth give more air, and always early in the day, so that sun-heat can be husbanded for the early part of the night instead of violent firing. Do not increase the night temperature much over that recommended for March - 70° at 10 p.m., to drop to 65° in the morning. When the days are bright avoid by all means having the hot-water pipes hot by day while full air is on.

There is nothing so injurious to Pines as a scorching sun, ablazing fire,and a maximum amount of air; such a state of things drives every particle of moisture out of the pineries, and literally dries up the tissues of the plants.' Keep the steaming-trays supplied with water; but unless once or twice a-week in bright weather, do not syringe over-head this month. Any young stock that were not found sufficiently rooted to shift in March will require to be attended to now, and shifted when moderately well rooted, concerning which operation see directions for March.