Succession stock will now have well taken with their shift, and make rapid progress, and will require careful management to prevent them from making a soft watery growth on the one hand, and on the other from a wiry weakly growth. The former of these conditions is brought about by too much water, and syringing to excess overhead, and too little air; and the opposite extreme produces the latter condition. Give just enough of water to keep the soil regularly moist without being bloppy; and instead of syringing the plants heavily overhead and about their centres, rather damp the surface of the plunging material, and just dew the plants gently overhead through a fine rose. They may now be more freely aired, opening the ventilators and shutting them gradually, as directed last month. The fires may be allowed to go out, or nearly so, in steady hot weather, but always kindle or set them agoing in time to prevent the thermometer from falling below 70° at 10 p.m. Where bottom-heat is dependent on leaves and tan, see that the material does not shrink away from the sides of the pots. This leaves the pot very little better than if it were standing on the surface of the bed; and the tan should be pressed firmly, and made up to the rims of the pots.

Plants intended to yield an autumn supply of fruit should show fruit this month, and if they have been grown in light pits, and are stocky, and have their pots well filled with roots, there will be little difficulty in getting them to do so. They should have a bottom-heat of from 85° to 90°, and a moist atmosphere and higher temperature applied to them immediately, and such conditions will cause them to throw up their fruit, if all others be favourable. Stock intended for winter supply should now be kept rather cooler and drier to cause them to rest for a few weeks previously to their being forced into fruiting a month hence. Those that are swelling off their fruit should now be encouraged with a high temperature and a plentiful supply of moisture, both in the soil and in the air. Shut them up as early in the afternoon of fine days as it is safe to do so, running up the heat from 90° to 100° for a short time. See last month's directions regarding those that are colouring and ripe. Look over all plants that are in fruit, and which are throwing up suckers, and remove them all but two or three on each plant; and wherever gills are discovered on the fruit-stems, remove them at once.

Liquid manure, in the way of guano, soot-water, or dung-water, may now be applied in a weak state every time Pines are watered. We prefer this to giving stronger doses every second or third watering.

Pine Forcing #1

Should the weather be such as horticulturists like and generally expect in July, the necessity for using fire-heat, to keep temperatures sufficiently high for Pines in all stages of growth, will be in some localities superseded by the more natural and invigorating heat of the sun. At the same time, if a period of dull, wet, and comparatively cold weather should occur, careful attention must be paid to the atmosphere of all Tine pits and stoves, and the pipes should be heated so as to keep the atmosphere from becoming stagnant, and from sinking much below the maximum temperature. Succession-plants now in their fruiting-pots and growing rapidly require to be very carefully supplied with air, so as to prevent a weak and sappy growth. The state of the weather at this season generally admits of a more liberal supply of air being given. Those intended for early fruiting next year should, by the end of the month, be large plants, with their pots well filled with roots, and requiring careful attention in the matter of water, so that they do not at any time get too dry, and consequently receive a check that may be the cause of their starting this autumn.

On the afternoons of fine days these and all succession stocks should be syringed through a fine rose, so as to moisten the surface of the leaves without causing much water to accumulate about the axils of the leaves, and produce a tendency to throw up suckers, and divert their energies from the centres. The night temperature should range at 75°, and when the nights are cold it may drop to 70° at 6 A.M. Although much opposed to shading Pines, it is sometimes necessary to prevent their becoming wiry and brown when the weather is intensely bright. Hexagon netting will generally be found sufficiently thick material for this purpose. Avoid the use of mats or thick canvas, for of two evils a little brownness of the leaf is preferable to a weak watery growth. Early-started Queens will now be all cut, and the suckers they have produced ready to be potted: 6 and 7 inch pots will be sufficiently large for these. For soil, use fresh turfy loam with a few bones mixed with it. In plunging these give them plenty of room, and keep them near the glass. Shade when bright till they make roots 2 inches long; and when they begin to grow freely, give plenty of air to keep them stocky.

If fruitingplunts for another year be scarce, some of the finest of these early suckers may be potted into their fruiting-pots by-and-by, and successfully fruited next summer. Where a quantity of fruit are ripe at one time, they can be kept a long time by removing the plants to a cool fruit-room. Fruit swelling off may be pushed on if necessary with a high temperature from sun-heat by shutting up early. The thermometer may rice from 95° to 100° for a while, with a corresponding amount of moisture. Water them liberally with manure-water, and syringe them overhead every fine afternoon. If a stock of fresh soil for next year is not already stored, now is a good time to do it. A calcareous loam from an old pasture, taken to the depth of 4 inches, is the best. Store it in some place where it can have full air, but not exposed to wet.