This plant is one of the most beautiful of all stove-climbers, and may be taken as the type of what a decorative plant should be. It possesses a good constitution, grows freely if liberally treated, has abundance of dark fresh green foliage, which, together with its pure white, wax-like flowers, is of good substance, while the latter are both graceful in form, and most deliciously perfumed. It makes a fine and effective plant in the exhibition tent when covered with great clusters of snowy blossoms on a dark background of cool green foliage, and it has the advantage of flowering throughout the summer and autumn months, just when exhibitions are most numerous. It is also distinct - no mean consideration in a collection of exhibition plants, where striking contrast conduces almost as much as good culture to an exhibitor's success. Too much stress can scarcely be laid on the observance of the latter fact, since growing plants to perfection and showing them off to the best advantage are qualifications not often found in the same exhibitor.

The Stephanotis is easily propagated any time during the spring or early summer by taking off the lateral branches or shoots when two or three inches long and inserting them in a well-drained cutting-pot, which should be plunged into a genial bottom heat of 70° or 80°, and kept comparatively close and humid until roots are emitted. The plant is also freely increased by seed, which is occasionally borne in fleshy pods the size of a Jargonelle pear, the stalk being at the thick end. Seed germinates very quickly if sown as soon as ripe, and the seedling-plants grow far more rapidly than cuttings, though they do not as a rule flower so early or so profusely; hence cuttings are in general to be preferred. The compost must be both hearty and moderately rich, as the plant is a gross feeder; and in order to induce a tendency to flower profusely, let its roots get confined in the pot. When the soil is exhausted, a few doses of clear liquid manure are highly beneficial, especially after the flower-buds make their appearance in the axils of the upper leaves. Two parts of fibrous loam, one part of peat, and a fourth of well-decayed leaf mould and rotten hot-bed manure mixed, makes a fine compost for this plant, with the addition of a handful or two of coarse sand.

Young plants should be encouraged to make vigorous growth, as a tendency to flower is easily induced by temporary starvation, or moderate dryness at the root. When the flowers once begin to show, growth may again be encouraged, as a cluster of pearly blossoms will then appear in every succeeding axil in regular succession. The plant should be neatly tied or trained on a balloon trellis; and after it is well covered with foliage, train the ends of the shoots up single strings, close under the glass, and allow them to get the full sun, with plenty of heat and air. This induces short-pointed, well-developed wood; and when assisted by a judicious use of the watering-pot, as above recommended, is a certain method of flowering this beautiful plant to perfection. Shoots grown close to the glass in this way are not unfre-quently covered with clusters of snowy blossoms and pale green buds for five or six feet, and go on flowering and producing fresh clusters of buds for weeks together. When the plant is required for exhibition, the shoots can be taken down and arranged so as to cover the plant; and a day or two suffices to open out the flowers if the plant is placed in a light and sunny position.

If the plant is too forward it will bear removal to a greenhouse, or into one of the back sheds, where moderate coolness and close shading will keep the flowers from expanding too rapidly. One fact should be borne in mind, namely, that this plant looks better a week before its best than a week after, as a profusion of fresh flower-buds, with but a few open clusters, is a far more enjoyable sight to a plantsman than a specimen covered with fully-opened clusters past their prime, and partly yellow with age.

The time requisite to grow on and flower an established specimen varies from five to six months, so that a plant required for a June show should be started into growth early in February. After flowering, plants should be fully exposed to the sun and air, so as to ripen the wood, which should be cut back in the winter or spring before the plants are started, so as to get a supply of strong shoots from near the base. In order to start the plants, plunge the pots in a tan bed, or over the hot-water pipes, and syringe them freely on warm sunny days. After root-action and growth commence, turn them gently out of the pots, and give them a shift, carefully picking off all superfluous old soil and decayed roots with the fingers, as a stick is apt to bruise the young roots. Large pots are not necessary for this plant; as fine specimens may be grown in a twelve-inch pot if liberally supplied with manure water, as before recommended.

Besides its value as an exhibition plant, it is useful planted out in a stove and trained up the rafters, producing immense quantities of its delicately-perfumed flowers, which are simply invaluable for the drawing-room vase, or for bridal and other bouquets. A cluster of Stephanotis flowers, backed neatly with a spray or two of Davallia or Adiantum, makes an effective ornament for ladies' hair; and about three pips, neatly mounted with a spray of Davallia and a few flowers of Forget-me-not, makes a charming " button-hole" bouquet for evening dress. F. W. B.