Equal in importance to the Azalea, as a decorative plant, we must reckon the Cape Heath; and perhaps first in importance as regards details of culture. Indeed, to produce a healthy well-flowered specimen Heath, especially one of the hard-wooded varieties, may be almost considered a test-point in plant culture. And very few cultivators indeed can produce good specimens of any considerable size, and keep them in health for a number of years. In order to succeed in the cultivation of Heaths, a man's care and watchfulness must be continuous, and not spasmodic, as no plant will sooner testify to neglect or carelessness in watering or other details of management; and when once the damage is done, no after-treatment can rectify it. If possible, this genus of plants should be under the care of one man about a place; and in whatever house the plants may be placed, he should still have the care of them, and no one else be allowed to touch them. He will thus get to know the wants of each plant, and can administer to them as required. Great damage is frequently done to plants through being handed from one man's charge into that of another, as they may be* changed from house to house.

A man thus loses interest in the plants ■ and they are very likely to suffer from being either over-watered or under-watered, unless the man should be extra careful, which, we are sorry to add, is frequently not the case. Of course, to small or moderate-sized places these remarks do not apply, as in such places the whole of the glass will probably be under the master's care, or under the charge of one man; and it is oftenest from such places that we see really good plants of all kinds turned out - not to speak of other branches of gardening, which goes to prove the correctness of our remarks. We are of opinion that in large places especially, instead of having a man to take charge of a certain number of houses, whatever may be their contents, or however often changed, it would be a far better plan to let the man have the charge of certain kinds of plants wherever they may be placed, either temporarily or otherwise. If that were the case, we do not think so many dead-alive-looking plants would be seen as one does find in going through many places.

A man would come to take a pride in seeing the things under his care doing well, knowing that if anything went wrong with them it would be known where the blame lay.

Unless in the raising of new varieties from seed, Heaths are propagated from cuttings. The young growths, after they have got a little firmness in them, should be slipped off with a heel, trimmed with a sharp knife, and the foliage clipped or cut from off a portion of the lower end of the stem. Six-inch pots are large enough in which to place the cuttings. Fill the pots, after crocking them well, to within an inch or so of the rim, with good peat, rubbed through a half-inch riddle, using some of the rougher portions on the top of the crocks, so as to secure thorough drainage - some silver-sand may be mixed along with the peat - press all firmly into the pots, and smooth it off level, then fill up with pure silver-sand, water through a fine rose, and then the pots are ready for the cuttings. Take a bell-glass a size smaller than the pots, and press it on the sand so as to make a mark, then proceed to put in the cuttings within this mark, so that they may be clear of the glass when it is put over them. Put the cuttings in firmly, and give another watering through a fine rose, to settle the sand about them ; and after the cuttings have dried a little, put on the bell-glasses. They may be placed in a house having a temperature of about 50°, and shaded from bright sun.

The glass should be taken off and wiped dry inside every morning; and they must be watched for mildew, and dusted slightly with sulphur on its first appearance. After they have formed roots, pot them off singly into small thumb-pots, using nearly equal parts of peat, rubbed through a fine sieve, and silver-sand; and, indeed, in all subsequent stages of their culture, nothing but good fibry peat and silver-sand should be used; only, as the pots increase in size, the compost should be rougher, so that when they come to be in pots larger than 6 inches, the soil should merely be broken in pieces with the hands, and not sifted at all; and at this stage a few small pieces of charcoal will be an advantage in helping to keep the soil open. The pots should always be carefully drained, not so much by putting in a large quantity of crocks thrown in any how, as in having them carefully put in, and a layer of sphagnum moss over them.

The great object during the first three or four years of their growth is to get a good foundation laid for the future specimen plant; this must be secured by frequent pinchings, and tying out the young shoots so as to get them into proper form. If this is not properly attended to at first it can never be done afterwards. They should never be shifted into larger pots until the ball is thoroughly permeated with the roots. On the other hand, they should not, in a young stage, be allowed to become pot-bound. The shifting is always a critical time with them; and many plants give way at this time or soon after, which shows the necessity of carefulness in the operation. The soil should be in a nice state as regards moistness, not too dry, nor yet wet enough to be sticky. After they are shifted, give a good watering, frequently repeated, until the whole mass is soaked through, and be careful that the ball is not dry before shifting; if so, you will never manage to get it wet again by ordinary waterings; the only plan is to steep it for an hour or two in a pail or cistern of water, and then let it drip awhile before potting. In potting, the soil must be rammed hard round about the ball. After they are watered as above they will not require any more waterings for a considerable time.

They should be set in a shaded place after potting, and out of draughts, and may get a dewing over with a syringe on the evenings of hot days. As regards training, a certain number of stakes are absolutely necessary for most varieties; yet they could do with far fewer stakes than are often used in the training. Sometimes they are used in such numbers as to be quite unsightly. The best way is to place a row of short stakes inside the rim of the pot, and leaning outwards over it; then within this again another row, a little more upright; a third row, almost upright, with an upright one in the centre, will be sufficient for the largest plants. The stakes should all be set before any tying is done, and cut over to the proper height - all the stakes forming each row being of equal length; then the main branches can be tied to the stakes, or slung to each other, as may be most convenient for bringing the plant into due form.

Mildew is the chief enemy Heaths have to contend against, and sulphur dusted on them is the best antidote for it. This, with careful watering and potting, constitutes the whole secret of success in the culture of Cape Heaths. Subjoined is a list of eighteen of the best varieties:- Austiniana, Cavendishiana, Eximea superba, Hender-sonii, Intermedia, Irbyana, Jasminoides alba, Lambertiana, Marnock-iana, Massonii major, M'Nabiana, Obbata, Perspicua nana, Retorta major, Tricolor elegans, Ventricosa Bothwelliana, Ventricosa globosa, Ventricosa tricolor, and Hyemalis, autumn and spring Gracilis, and Melantherae for cutting from. J. G. W.