The Hollyhock - a native of China - was introduced into European gardens three hundred years ago. In our short recollection, with few exceptions, the flowers produced from seed were nothing superior to broad smooth disks of red, maroon, purple, yellow white, and other intermediate hues, crowned by a tuft of stamens. The vast improvement that.has been attained within the last twenty years is fully demonstrated in the numbers of beautiful double flowers realised from every single packet of sound seed. A single variety is now the exception; for this we have to thank the perseverance and skill of such nurserymen and horticulturists as Messrs Barron, Charter, Paul, Downie, Laird, & Laing, Eoake, Parson, and others.

The Hollyhock is of scarcely less importance to a well-appointed garden than the Dahlia: so inseparable are they, that their names spontaneously come in the same utterance by most people. There are many reasons why they should be spoken of unitedly. For example, their dissimilarity in flower, in leaf, in form, is very wide; and still how telling the effect when growing in combination - how immensely the lofty bearing of the Hollyhock adds to the massive boldness of the Dahlia ! In the flower-garden they are again inseparable, where they combine in giving effect to clump or line. Nor does the association end here. Together we look for them in the drawing-room; and certainly never fail to find them side by side on the exhibition table winning similar awards.

The Hollyhock is a splendid subject to light up the sombre shades that sometimes prevail in the shrubbery, as it is not at all particular as regards aspect or surrounding; provided that it is not altogether environed, or excluded from sun and air, it will thrive wonderfully. But, though thus accommodating, it would dwindle if planted amongst the roots of an old Ash or the like. It would there be pilfered of any sustenance prepared for it by the greedy feeders of the tree. Nor is it satisfactory to have the plants too much overshaded by branches if avoidable; the drip from such is hurtful to most plants.

Propagation

This is accomplished in various ways - viz., by eyes, from cuttings in the usual form, divisions of the root, and also by seed. Suppose we glance at each briefly, considering first how to raise plants from seed. Speaking first of the quality of the seed, permit me to advise that the cultivator's sanguine hopes should not be blasted by purchasing spurious trash in the name of genuine quality. Let him buy only from reliable sources, in order to get superior sorts.

Early in June is considered to be the best period of the year to sow the seed, which affords ample time to establish strong plants well before winter sets in. Some people sow the seeds on a well-prepared border in the warmest quarter of the garden, and succeed well enough on the whole; but I would rather advise to sow in boxes, and cover with hand-glasses, or have them placed in a cold frame. The boxes should have holes in their bottom, with open drainage, to allow the water to pass freely off. The soil itself should be three parts light rich loam, with sufficient leaf-mould and sand intermixed to make it porous. After scattering on the seeds, a covering of half an inch ought to be sifted over them, then the entire body of the soil moistened through a fine rose. Preserve the soil in the boxes from getting too dry by light shading when the sun is full upon them, and keep them rather close until the seed-leaf is fully expanded, but at the same time guard against allowing the interior of the frame, or hand-glass, getting excessively heated.

When the seedlings can be easily handled, they may then he dibbled into lines in the frame, on a prepared bed for their reception, well watered through a rose, the sashes put on, kept pretty close and shaded for eight days, then give additional ventilation, and remove the shading by degrees, and subsequently the sashes.

Lift and pot the plants with as much soil about their roots as will adhere, and replace them in the frame over winter, giving abundant air during sunshine and mild days, and not neglecting to have them always moderately moist at the root.

After-Culture - What we have first to consider under this head is the preparation of the ground which the plants are intended to occupy. This ought to be deeply trenched and well manured some months prior to planting out, and in treated in the same way just before planting out in April. At the latter end of April, plant out in lines, 3 feet between plants, and the same between rows. Water them if the soil be dry. Invert a pot over each plant should the weather threaten frost, but uncover them daily as soon as the frost is gone again, replacing them in the evenings until all danger of severe frost is past. Supply each plant with a firmly-fixed stake, fully 3 feet above ground, as soon as the plants have reached about a foot in height. Water copiously at the root in dry weather. After they are well established, and are in active growth, also apply the syringe freely in the evenings after hot sunshine, to freshen the foliage and prevent red-spider getting a footing. Thin out the flowers when they appear in clusters, so that their quality maybe justly judged when they open.

These points attended to, and the stopping of the growth 6 feet above ground, the thinning and cropping off of the side shoots is all that need be advised regarding seedlings.

Propagation By Cuttings

Cuttings should be taken from the base of the stem when they are a little more than 2 inches long. Cut them away close to the junction, pot them singly into thumb-pots, and plunge them into a half-spent hotbed. Keep them close and shaded until rooted; then admit air gradually, until they are inured to full exposure. Be rather temperate as regards water until it may be assumed that the plants are well furnished with roots, after which give unsparingly. Never permit the plants to get pot-bound on any consideration, but make it a rule to give larger shifts as soon as their roots net the balls of soil. Division of the roots is a simple process, and is effected by splitting up the stem and root into as many parts as there are sprouts about the stem. Pot and afford them the protection of a cold frame, keeping them moderately close and warm for the succeeding ten days. Multiplying by the eye is a simple process also, and is performed by cutting the side shoots into as many pieces as there are eyes; and the process consists in using a knife with a keen edge, cutting in the solid of the stem below each eye: cut also away the leaves, but leave the footstalk adhering to the eye; cover the eyes fully a quarter of an inch after arranging them rather thickly together in pots, making the footstalks of the leaves stand erect above the soil.

Treat as recommended for other cuttings. These side shoots are best obtained in the latter end of summer, just prior to the wood becoming too hard.