When scions are taken off for grafting purposes, more knowledge and discrimination are necessary for the selecting of Plums than perhaps any other variety of fruit. Much of the gum and canker which we see amongst young Plum-trees is the result of want of attention to two simple little facts - viz., the taking off the scion while the parent tree is at rest, and also the heading-down of the stock before the rise of the sap. If these two facts be neglected, it will be found almost an impossibility to form a union; and should a union be formed, the almost inevitable result will be canker and gum. This may be one reason why nurserymen prefer budding, as this operation is done at a very different season, and consequently there is less chance of these diseases attacking the young trees. December is the month we should select for taking off scions of young Plums, as this, of all the months of the year, is the one when all vegetation is most thoroughly dormant. These should be taken off with care, especially to see that the young shoots possess plenty of wood-buds, and no, or as few as possible, flower-buds. These, when taken off, should be put in by the heels into the soil to await the grafting season.

The stocks should also be cut back to their desired height about this time, at least to within an inch or so of that height. Our object in leaving a little more than what is needed is to be prepared in case frost might crack the stock, so that we can spare a piece of the top to cut it down to the sound wood. The time when this operation may best be performed will depend on circumstances, conditions, and varieties. We might say from the middle of March to the middle of April is the best or only time to do this; but in place of doing so we will simply say that the best time is when the stock is fairly on the move, and the scion shows signs of starting. In this, as in all other cases, we prefer the stock to be in advance of the scion, and the reasons we give in this case are identical with those given when treating upon this point in a former article. In the case of grafting Plums, it is sometimes necessary to take the top or terminal portion of the shoot. Especially where the trees from which the scions are taken are very old is this the case, as many of the shoots made by such trees seldom possess more than one or two wood-buds; and where there is only one, that one is always terminal.

In the case of young healthy trees, this will not be necessary, as they produce wood-buds in abundance, and the graft maybe selected from the best and ripest portion of the shoot. Any of the modes of grafting which we have recommended when speaking of the Pear and Apple will do for the Plum. As it is sometimes difficult to form a union in grafting the Plum, we would recommend drawing the earth up over the point of union; which, by excluding the atmosphere and keeping the scion in a more moist condition than it could be without, will greatly facilitate a union, and will at the same time keep the graft free from the violence of the storm. This of course only applies to those trees grafted a few inches from the ground; those grafted at standard height must be steadied by a stake, and have a good supply of moss tied over the clay after the operation is finished. This moss must be kept regularly moistened in dry weather, and when regularly attended to in that way will be of much service in effecting a union.

Where budding is resorted to, shield-budding; we consider to be the best; and, as a consequence, the autumn is the time to perform it. Circumstances alone can definitely point out the date, but, as a rule, at the beginning of August or end of July will be found to answer the purpose best. The beginner in matters of this sort must be very careful not to waste his labours in vain by taking flower in place of wood buds. Wood-buds are always distinguished from flower-buds by their more slender and pointed appearance, while flower-buds are always known by their round plump look. The bud ought to remain dormant during the first autumn and winter, and push immediately into growth the following season. In the course of a few weeks the operator may know whether or not the bud will fail if he attends to what has already been said upon this point - viz., when making the bud, allow a small portion of the leaf and foot-stalk to remain thereupon; and should this drop off in the course of a few weeks, success is sure to crown the operation, whereas, if it dries up and adheres, it is a sure token that it will not take. Whatever sort of material is used for tying up the bud will, in the course of a few weeks, begin to get tight and leave marks upon the wood.

Care should be taken to remove and renew these ties from time to time, as, if they are allowed to remain for a length of time, they are sure to cause gum or canker. The best material for this purpose is stocking worsted, which is at once strong and elastic. We have often wondered how little belts of india-rubber would answer the purpose. We never have met with any one who has tried it, but it is our intention to make some experiments with it; and whether or not it answers the end in view, we will let the result be known. In spring, when the bud shows signs of starting into growth, the ties may be removed at once, unless there should be token of not very firmly adhering. In that case they may be allowed to remain for some time longer, but should be looked to every week and retied, as, if this is not regularly done, they will soon cut into the wood, as both stock and bud will be swelling rapidly, and in the course of a few weeks will probably double their circumference unless the stock be all the larger. Should the ties be allowed to remain, and the tree growing so rapidly, it will at once be seen that a very unsightly mark would thus be made, which would materially reduce the resisting powers of the tree, and make it very susceptible to being broken over at this point by any storm.

James M'Millan.

(To be continued).