One of the choicest and most useful of our greenhouse flowering bulbs is the Vallota purpurea. This charming plant is a native of the Cape of Good Hope, and is worthy of a place in the most limited collection of plants; in fact no collection, however small, should be without it. Either as a dinner-table plant for room decoration, or in the conservatory, it is equally suitable and equally admired. It takes rank among the Amaryllids; and indeed in its habit, foliage, and shape of flowers, it very much resembles the Amaryllis, only that the flowers are smaller and a self-colour, which is bright scarlet. Why it is called purpurea I cannot tell, as there is certainly nothing purple about it. At no stage of its growth does it require a higher temperature than that of the ordinary greenhouse. It nevertheless stands forcing very well, and when introduced to a hot pit or stove, will quickly throw up its flower-stems, provided it has been previously sufficiently well ripened. The ripening process, however, should not be carried to the length of causing it to lose its foliage; and herein it differs from the Amaryllis, being an evergreen bulb, and should on no account be allowed to lose its foliage through starvation : the ripening process must be carried out by limiting the supply of moisture and increasing the amount of air, - of course seeing that it has made its growth previously.

My remarks apply to its treatment as a greenhouse plant coming into flower in its natural season, rather than as a plant subjected to the process of forcing. It is propagated by offsets, or small bulbs formed at the sides of the old ones. In potting, which should be done about the middle or end of February, the bulbs ought to be assorted, keeping the flowering-bulbs by themselves. These should be potted, say in 6-inch pots, which is a very useful size for general decorative work. Five or six bulbs may be put into each pot; and of course, if large specimens are wanted, large pots should be used, and bulbs put in in proportion. The smaller bulbs may then be potted in 4-inch or 6-inch pots, as may be most convenient, putting in a number of bulbs according to size of pots or size of bulbs - and these can be grown on for future flowering.

The soil best adapted to their wants consists of fibry loam and peat in equal quantities, with a good dash of sharp sand and a little fine old manure incorporated with it, or failing this a handful of ground bones. The plants must not be over-watered until they begin to make fresh growth; but after they are fairly on the way, and throughout the summer, they must get an abundant supply.

From the end of May and onwards, they will do very well in a cold pit or frame, kept near the glass, and a moderate supply of air given every day. They will flower during the autumn months from the end of August. Some cultivators repot the bulbs as soon as they have done flowering, and keep them growing on during the winter, only with a lessened supply of water during the dull winter months. I consider it to be more a matter of routine than anything else whether they be potted in autumn or early in spring. I have tried both ways, and could see no material difference, only that being repotted into fresh soil in autumn, they required somewhat more careful looking after throughout the winter, and it may be that they will come into flower a little earlier; but they are less liable to come to harm if wintered in the pots in which they had flowered, which, of course, are full of roots, and will stand a greater degree of cold with impunity. They will winter safely in a temperature of about 45°. J. G., W.