Give every attention to late Grapes still hanging, in the way of keeping a steady temperature of 45° and a dry atmosphere. Instead of opening ventilators on mild foggy days, keep them shut, and embrace the opportunity afforded by clearer weather of giving a little increase of heat and air. The former practice fills the house with moist air, while the latter expels it. Go over every bunch twice a-week, and remove all decaying berries before they communicate their rottenness to others. Prune all Vines from which the fruit has been cut, and that have shed their leaves. Wash every inch of inside surface, not even excepting gangways; paint the hot-water pipes and wood and wirework, if they require it; and if the Vines have been infected with red-spider last year, wash them also with a solution of Fowler's insecticide, and coat them over with a mixture of clay, cow-dung, sulphur, and a little soft-soap of the consistency of thick paint; after which remove 2 inches of the surface-soil from the inside border, and if the roots are inside the house, top-dress with 2 inches of horse-droppings or other short manure, and cover it over with an inch of loam. In a few instances early-started Vines will be set, and in some cases thinned.

These, if required as early as possible to succeed the late Grapes, must be pushed briskly along, but let the forcing be done by day principally. Sixty-five degrees is sufficient temperature at night, unless in very mild weather, when it may rise to 70°. Avoid an excess of moisture, especially in dull weather, and give air on all favourable opportunities, and always in the earlier part of the day, shutting up early in the afternoon. If this crop be in pots, great attention must be paid to watering, keeping the oil regularly moist. Vines in bloom, require to be freely aired, avoiding cold currents as much as possible. Thin the bunches to the desired number immediately they are well set, and then the berries as soon as they attain the size of Radish seed. Stop the growths of late Vines two or three joints beyond the best bunch, and carefully tie them down by degrees for fear of breaking the tender growths, and avoid the crowding of wood and foliage. Start succession-houses, the borders of which, it is presumed, have been well covered with leaves or litter, or both, some time ago. It is a good plan to have a ridge of hot leaves and manure on the inside border, to be turned over every ten days or so.

Such keep up a fine atmosphere for breaking and starting Vines. Begin with 45° to 50° at night, gradually increasing the heat to 60° by the time the buds have all fairly started. If they show symptoms of swelling the buds at the top much in advance of the bottom ones, bend down the tops of the Vines into a cooler part of the house till the bottom buds advance. We are not an advocate for much syringing in vineries, and prefer keeping up the moisture by evaporation from steaming-troughs and floor-sprinkling. But after leaves are formed, an excess of this, with too little air, breeds wartiness on the under sides of the leaves, and checks their expansion, and impairs the whole system of the Vines. Put in a sufficient number of eyes for growing into Vines required for another season. Either put them singly in 3-inch pots, or a number in larger ones, to be potted off when their roots are an inch long. Use a light turfy loam, with a little sand mixed with it, to start them in.