This being done, they should be cut down to within two or three eyes of their base, and be kept on the dry side until they are required to be started, say at the beginning of February, when they should be well watered - that is, to moisten all the soil in the pot, and allow it to become mellow in a cool house, before the Vines are excited into action. After the buds break, a thorough watering will need to be given, so as to moisten every particle of soil in the pot; and growth should be advanced as circumstances will permit. In case the Vines are not purchased before the month of March, or even later, it is not a matter of such consequence; only the Vines must not be cut down, but be introduced into heat at once, and be disbudded to the required distance. We have planted Vines from February up to the end of July in the way above described, and all have done well; it is just a matter of choice and circumstances with the cultivator. We never plant Vines except when growing; and of course, for early work, the sooner the Vines are started into growth the sooner will they be ripened and ready for starting the following year.

The border being ready for planting, and its temperature tested with the aid of a ground thermometer, in order that the roots may not receive a check through being planted in soil of a lower temperature than that in which they have been growing, the Vines should be planted at a distance of 3 feet apart, for reasons which shall be referred to towards the end of our remarks.

In planting the Vines, it is important to have all the ball of earth in an equable moist state, so that when it is pricked with a sharp-pointed stick it will mould down in the hands. All that is necessary is to prick the outer surface of the ball of earth and remove the soil on the surface of the ball down to the roots, and disentangle the latter, laying them out at equal distances. Over the bed of soil shake a little fine earth amongst the roots, and press firmly, making the whole bed of soil and the ball of earth of equal firmness.

There is no advantage, but rather the reverse, gained by shaking the balls of earth to pieces, if this important matter is not attended to and skilfully performed. Neither is there much objection to shaking them out if people desire to do so, if the season is not too far advanced, and the Vines have not made too much leaf-growth. After planting, water at a temperature of 85°, and mulch the surface of the border with about an inch deep of horse-droppings.

Vines from eyes for planting in a similar way can either be purchased when about a foot long, or, indeed, at any time up to midsummer, when it is safe to remove them. If they are grown at home, they should be grown on Mr William Thomson's plan of inserting the eyes in pieces of square turves. A hole is made in the centre of the piece of turf, and a little sharp sand put into it, and the Vine eye pressed down into the sand, leaving the "eye" peeping above the soil.

The turves should be laid on the surface of a bed, with a gentle warmth, and moistened over occasionally with a syringe: this is all the labour necessary for a considerable time, until the eyes calyx at either extremity of their base and emit roots shortly afterwards.

As soon as the roots increase in number, and are travelling over the surface of the turves, a layer of sifted earth should be laid over them: this, of course, will fall away when the turves are separated individually, and leave a healthy mass of roots ready for planting out in the border. We have kept Vines on turves in this way to the end of May, until an early crop of Grapes was cleared from old Vines and a new border made ready for planting. But it is safer when such a case is anticipated to grow the Vines in pots, and plant the ball of earth intact. We have now, as it were, the Vines planted and growing apace, and as soon as the roots are found to be at work, they should be pinched at a joint or so from the point, and the lateral growth removed from beside the base bud. Some growers allow the rod to travel to the length of 5 or 6 feet, or to its fruiting length, before stopping it; but I always remark that when young Vines are stopped at an early stage of growth, they are supplying themselves with roots during the temporary stand-still, and they rush away with increased vigour afterwards.

During the growing season the roots of the Vines should be liberally supplied with water, and be carefully ventilated. As regards the length between the joints of a Vine, or the breadth or substance of its leaves, it is a matter entirely dependent upon judicious ventilation and atmospheric conditions. If half the Vines in the country got more water at the root, and double the amount of air that they generally get, and about half the amount of atmospheric moisture, I venture to predict that results in the majority of cases would be different from what they are. The fact is, we have got so accustomed to habitual syringing, that we keep Vines growing and extending their shoots long after they would of their own free will settle down to solidify the growth they had made, and plump up their fruiting-buds with the sap that is expended in after-growths and laterals.

As the Vines progress, it will be seen whether they require the assistance of liquid manure at the root; and this should be applied when growth is, so to speak, on the wane, so that the fruiting-buds will benefit by the application, and not the surplus growth that is to be cut away at pruning-time. Ripen off carefully, and remove the sashes, where it is practicable, for a month or six weeks during the autumn. The system would be found to be a great relief where alterations are going on, or to relieve the strain on early houses which are declining in vigour; besides, the Vines - unlike those in pots - will bear two good crops of fruit, and will answer better the second year than the first, as they can be forced earlier the second season.

It is recommended that the Vines should be planted 3 feet apart - for this reason: that a young rod could be worked up from the base of each Vine, so that the cultivator might choose between the rod and the spur system, or arrange matters in such a way as to give both plans a trial. We have tried both ways, and can vouch for either yielding good results. W. Hinds.