The requirements for the successful management of window plants are neither numerous nor difficult; yet, as a rule, more disappointments and failures result than in any other branch of amateur gardening. One of the first requirements is a genuine love for plants, without which the many necessary little attentions are sure to be omitted, and the plants will suffer accordingly. It may be stated as a guiding rule that the greater the care, the greater the success and satisfaction.

The majority of plants require all the light it is possible to give them, with as much sunshine as the position and structure of the window will admit. As a rule those plants exposed to the morning sunshine thrive better than those having exposure to the afternoon beams only - this applies particularly to flowering plants.

Those plants grown for the beauty of their leaves and elegance of foliage, as, for example, palms, ferns and begonias, will thrive in windows which either are not exposed at all to direct sunshine, or for only a short time each day. But the light should be admitted directly to the windows, and not shaded by overhanging roofs.

Plants require nutritious soil. The best general soil is turf from a rich pasture, cut about two and a half inches thick, laid closely together until it, has somewhat decayed, then broken up and mixed with about one-third very rotten manure or leaf soil. The leaf soil can generally be found in flaky-like forms beneath oak, chestnut, or other large trees, where standing thickly together. Where such soil cannot be obtained, a good substitute is easily found in the rich soil easily obtained from hedge banks, and in corners of most fields by the sides of the fence. Those living in cities can always obtain suitable soil from the local florist.

The watering of plants is of the greatest importance, and this must be done rightly. Nine-tenths of the failures in window gardening can be attributed to improper watering, either too much or too little - in many cases too much. You cannot water any plant by rule of thumb. We frequently hear, " I cannot think how it is my window plants do not do well, for I water them every day." This is likely to be the cause of their not doing well. Whenever you water a plant, always give sufficient to soak the whole mass of soil thoroughly; then do not water it again until it shows signs of dryness on the surface. It may not be for two or three days, or even longer, but no matter, do not water it until you are sure of its being in a slightly dry condition. On the other hand, some plants require water twice a day, especially when the pots are full of roots, and the plant is growing vigorously and flowering profusely. The leaves of plants must be kept clean and free from dust; those with bright, shining leaves and of good size can be wiped clean with a sponge or other soft article. Others with smaller leaves can only be cleaned by being showered overhead either with a sprinkler or syringe, and it should be done once or twice a week. Do not allow plants to stand in water except such as are aquatic.

If the water touches the bottom of the pots, a good plan is to have a smaller saucer turned upside down for the plant to stand upon within the other saucer, or even small blocks of hard wood or any other material that will hold the bottom of the pot above the water-line, otherwise remember to empty out the water that drains into the saucers. Plants delight in good living, and when the pots become crowded with roots they should be stimulated, but not until then, unless the plant has been a long time in the same pot, and it is impossible to renew the soil or give a larger pot. I am particular in calling attention to this matter of stimulating window plants, from the fact that a theory is now being extensively circulated, to the effect that plants grown in pots do not require any stimulants, or at the most very few. My experience is that you can no more grow a plant successfully in a pot, in poor or worn-out soil, than you can take a crop of corn or any other crop from the same soil ten years in succession without enriching.

For stimulants, one ounce of Peruvian guano in proportion to three gallons of water. Soapsuds, as used on wash-days, or water with ammonia in that has been used for washing hands, are all good; or the top of the soil in each pot can be removed to the depth of from one-half to one inch, a sprinkling of fine bone meal (which can be had at all florists' supply stores) applied, and then covered up with fresh soil. Besides there are a good many preparations of concentrated manures that are good and easily applied. Plants in warm rooms should be watered with water as warm as the temperature of the room, or a little warmer.

Insect pests are a great annoyance, and often cause considerable trouble from the fact that they do harm before being discovered. It is quite safe to subject all plants to an occasional bath of tobacco water, in strength about the color of strong tea or weak coffee, which can be easily made from the refuse stems from cigar makers or a small package of the common smoking tobacco, by placing in a pail and pouring over it boiling water, allowing it to stand all night, and then immersing the head of the plant entirely, and holding it so for a few seconds. This will destroy the green fly or aphis, and the minute red spider; other insects, such as the white, cotton-like mealy bug, must be picked off with a sharp-pointed stick, and the very tight-sticking scale-like insects will have to be removed in the same way. In immersing plants, with one hand press tightly on the top of the pot and turn it upside down before holding it over the vessel; this will allow all loose soil to escape and thus keep the liquid clean.

All plants should have either new pots or old pots washed perfectly clean inside and out. Broken pieces of pots must be used for drainage by first placing one of good size, with the hollow side downward, over the hole, then filling in with other pieces to about one-third of the depth; over this place a little rough soil, then place in the plant, fill in compactly all around, press tightly so as to have the soil within half an inch of the top in pots of small size, and in larger pots allow an inch below for water room, and all plants newly potted should be well soaked so as to be sure the whole is saturated.

I have not named any particular time to pot or re-pot plants, but it is desirable to change the soil at least once a year, and in cases where the pots are already large enough, there is no difficulty in washing away the old soil so as to use the same sized pots again; where plants are potted but once a year, the end of February or beginning of March is the best time; but as plants fill the pots with roots they can be moved into pots a size or two larger at any time.

To obtain the best results we must divide our collection into two sections - the first section to embrace such as will do well in rooms where the temperature exceeds 650 Fahrenheit, and the second section where the temperature does not exceed ' 650 nor fall lower than 400. This must be understood to mean where the heat is artificial, and not sun heat; and we may say a slight variation for a few hours at a time will not be injurious, should the temperature rise or fall.

First on our list are begonias. These embrace several distinct characteristics. The shrubby flowering species, generally with bright, clean leaves, give general satisfaction, and if properly watered and placed where they can have a little sun, flower persistently the whole of the winter; such as Saundersoni, Hybrida multiflora, Wel-toniensis, Semperflorens, the brilliant Rubra and Insignis should be included in a limited collection. These do not include nearly all of this section, but are easily managed. Another class of begonias are the Rex type, with beautiful marked leaves of all shades of green and silvery-white. These require a rather shady position and a moist atmosphere; in fact, they must have a good degree of moisture atmospherically or they are unsatisfactory. They are impatient if subjected to too much water at the roots, or too much dust.

Caladiums, with many-colored, spotted, striped and mottled leaves, are very handsome plants for summer, and can be started in small pots in March in the warmest corner, re-potted as they grow into pots of four or five inches in diameter, and by the time other plants have to be removed out of doors these will be fine objects all summer.

Coleus and Achyranthus are splendid plants for very warm rooms. Strong tops can be easily rooted from plants growing outside, by the middle of August, taken inside before any chilly nights come, re-potted into necessary sized pots, and kept well supplied with water. They are among the best plants for winter, and are not at all costly.

Crotons have not as yet been employed for window plants to the extent they deserve. Their richly-marked leaves, elegant forms and variable shapes are always attractive. They delight in rich soil, a high temperature and moderate light; should be frequently cleansed, either by sprinkling, bathing or sponging; they may either be kept inside all summer, or after the 1st of June they may be plunged in some shady, warm corner outside, until September. Any straggling shoots should be pinched or cut off from time to time, thus producing a bushy growth. The varieties Interruptum, Irregulare, Variegatum and Pictum are among the cheapest and best.

Dracaenas are well-known elegant plants, easily managed. The varieties Terminalis, Guilfoylei, Cooperi and Amabilis are grown in great numbers for window plants, and if they are treated as advised for crotons they will give the same satisfactory results.

Ferns are numerous, succeeding in the shadiest windows, requiring but little attention, and always graceful and cheering. They must be kept well supplied with water, occasionally bathed or syringed; in the summer time plunged out of doors in some shady, damp spot, and in September, before bringing in again, should be re-potted; this is about all the cultivation required. A few beautiful varieties are Adiantums cuneatum, Far-leyense, gracillimum and trapeziforme, Davallia tenuifolia, Lomaria gibba, Microlepia hirta cris-tata, Nephrolepsis davallioides furcans and Pteris Cretica albo lineata, not forgetting a few varieties of Selaginellas or Lycopodiums.

The Ficus elastica or India-rubber tree is well known, and might almost be called the indestructible plant. With its bold and leathery leaves, its free and noble carriage, it bids defiance to dust and smoke alike, providing always it has plenty to drink, with occasional stimulants added.

Palms are the aristocracy among foliage plants, mostly very easy to manage, requiring a good deal of water and not necessarily very large pots; thriving well in a partially shaded window, to be frequently washed overhead, and can always be placed outside under partial shade in summer time. A few fine kinds are Arecalutescens, Cary-ota urens, Cocos Weddelliana, Latania borbonica, and Oreodoxa regia. They can be used for various purposes of table decoration, and not necessarily taken out of doors if desirable for windows in the summer.

In our second section we have a more extended list of flowering plants, and not so large a list of fine foliage plants. Beginning with abutilons (often called flowering maples), we have a class of elegant free-flowering winter-blooming plants, embracing pure white, yellow, orange and deep red flowers; thriving in a partially shaded window, adapting themselves to any mode of training, plunged out of doors in the summer time, re-potted in August. They can be trimmed into either standard or any other form, and will flower continuously.

Azaleas are very beautiful, easily managed, but rather impatient if subjected to a dry atmosphere or allowed to get dry; in fact, they should never be allowed to get dry at the roots, either winter or summer. A frequent bath, immersing plant and pot, is a safeguard against drought and otherwise beneficial. A partially shaded window and a shady spot in the summer will give them about all they require. As to varieties, there are no poor ones, and most florists have a good selection. This brings us to another very popular flower, the camellia; one of the very easiest plants to manage, but unfortunately it is generally a rather unsatisfactory window-plant, from the fact of its being so very conservative. It does not show any abuse at the moment of affliction, and not even for months, but tries to forget and start afresh, with better hopes; but alas ! it breaks down, and its apparent fine, large buds drop off, one by one, until none are left. This, in nine cases out of ten, is from the plant being allowed to suffer for want of water in the summer time. Those curious enough to open one of the fallen buds will find generally the outside of the flower quite fresh, but the center is always discolored and dead, and has been for months.

With well-drained pots it is almost impossible to give camellias too much water in the summer time; and the same treatment and position as advised for azaleas will exactly suit camellias. As to the beauty of the camellia, every lover of flowers is aware of it. They are rapidly gaining favor again, and will shortly recover their once great popularity; and as there are no poor varieties, it is quite easy to make a selection.

Calla lily (Richardia Ethiopica) is another very popular window-plant, and yet not very generally successfully managed. Those having plants at this moment will do well to keep them growing in a light, sunny window; if they have not flowered, do not lose patience and set them in the background; bear with them until the first of May; then find some shaded, damp corner in the garden : in this plunge your plant over the rim of the pot; about twice a week during the summer carry along with you a basin or watering-can of soapy water, and give your calla. Toward the middle of September dig it up, and if the pot appears too small for the plant, get a pot one or two sizes larger; turn it out, and place in the larger pot without breaking the roots; then stand it in the lightest sunny window. As it begins to grow, give plenty of water, and often some stimulants, and by Christmas, if these directions are followed, you are sure to have flowers. After the flower-buds are in sight, you can place the plant in a very warm position without injury.

Carnations are always favorites, and should be very satisfactory plants; they can always be had established in pots in the fall. They delight in a rich soil, a rather low temperature, and plenty of sun. Those desiring to grow their own plants should plant small ones in the open ground in May, in a sunny position, occasionally cutting off the tops of the plants, to make them bushy, until the end of July, after which they should be allowed to grow. At the beginning of September dig up carefully with ball of earth, and place in pots well drained; put in shady place, and after beginning to grow, and before frost, remove into the house. A few of the beautiful chrysanthemums should be planted at the same time as the carnations, and subjected to precisely the same treatment, or a few can be plunged in pots and watered as often as required. Those who have a window should have some of this the most beautiful of autumn flowers.

Daphne Indica, two varieties, are most easily managed, and perhaps are the most deliciously perfumed winter-flowering plant we have, requiring about the same treatment as azaleas.

Fuchsias can be made to flower quite early in the spring, and the speciosa and one or two other kinds are good winter-flowering varieties. Fuchsias require good drainage, a light, porous soil, a somewhat sunny position in winter, slight shade in summer, and a rather moist atmosphere. Geraniums (these are really pelargoniums, but we seem to have got so used to the name geranium it is a hard matter to believe any other) are for a light, sunny window, where the temperature can be kept about 550 to 6o° : the best of all winter-flowering plants, and all growers should have among their collection both double and single varieties, especially some of the finer forms of the single kinds. They are so easily managed and so continuously in flower, it would seem there ought to be no dearth of flowers where there are half a dozen kinds of geraniums. There is often a great mistake among window gardeners, expecting to have their windows gay all winter and their flower-gardens gay all summer with the same plants, and repeat. This cannot be done; those plants intended for winter-flowering should be nicely rooted plants in May, then potted into small pots and plunged in the open ground, the flowers to be kept picked off all summer.

About the middle of August they must be potted into good soil in well-drained pots of four or five inches in diameter, placed in some spot where they will have a little sun morning or evening, but not plunged as before. After the middle of September take them inside, in the sunniest window you have, water well, and carefully turn the plants around from time to time, to keep them in good shape, and as the pots get full of roots, give a little stimulants at least once a week, and there will be no dearth of geranium flowers. If old plants are kept over, they should not be allowed to flower during the summer, but treated as advised for young plants. Those desirous of a few more ferns for a cool room should add to the list given (on page 361, this article,) Cyrtomium Fortunei, Lastraea aristata variegata, Nephrolepistuberosa, Pteris argy-riea and tremula. Other palms could be added also for growing in a cold window, as Areca rubra, the three Chamaerops, excelsa, Fortunei and humilis; Corypha australis and Seaforthia elegans. Of miscellaneous window-plants are Chinese primulas, cyclamens and cinerarias, easily obtained from florists in the fall, and requiring about the same treatment as advised for the management of the geraniums after being brought into the house.

In this article I have not exhausted half the window plants available.

There are a few other plants which should be included in our list, such as climbers. The European ivy, the German ivy, the Senecio macroglos-sus, Lygodium scandens and Smilax. And for basket and bracket plants the Kenilworth ivy, Othonna crassifolia, the different Tradescantias, and several other kinds that will present themselves to the enthusiastic window gardener.

The disposition and training of the various plants can be left to the cultivator, but it is best to bear in mind always to consult the general habit of the plant, and not to force it into shape and position that prevents healthy growth and development.

As with the training so with the grouping or arrangement of plants in baskets, stands or jardinieres, it can be left to individual taste. Where it is not desirable to disturb plants by re-potting, they can be placed inside larger pots and the interstices filled up with either moss or fine soil. On all favorable opportunities air should be admitted for a few minutes or longer each day; but as window-plants are not expected to have all their requirements as if grown in a structure expressly for that purpose, we must do the best we can under the circumstances.

In this essay, which has spread over considerable space, there is no mention of bulbous plants, as a paper recently read before your Society gave instructions for their management in the house.

[This excellent essay was read before the New York Horticultural Society, at one of its spring meetings. It is one of those admirable productions, which, though long, could not be condensed without losing something. - Ed. G. M.]