This section is from the book "The Gardener's Monthly And Horticulturist V26", by Thomas Meehan. See also: Four-Season Harvest: Organic Vegetables from Your Home Garden All Year Long.
Take out the soil four inches wider than the intended walk and three inches deep, preserving the bottom highest in the center, as the walk will be when finished. Next lay along each edge drain-pipes to carry away the water, and build brick silt basins one foot square at proper intervals, having an iron grating of neat pattern fixed in the top. These gratings should fit into an iron frame, so that they may be lifted occasionally for clearing the silt basins. Then have ready as much gravel, or fine shingle mixed with rough sand, as will suffice to form the walk. Then it will be necessary to procure a supply of unslaked lime fresh from the kiln, and an unlimited supply of water. On a piece of hard ground or on rough boards, mix about six bushels of the gravel with one bushel of lime, adding sufficient water through the rose of a watering pot to form it into a semi-liquid state. Whilst still hot convey it to the walk, and mould to the wished-for form with a handy shovel. Of course, where the work is extensive, it will be well to keep a certain number of men preparing the concrete, others wheeling, and one or two forming the walk.
A good deal of working and smoothing with the shovel will be necessary, especially if the material is not made tolerably soft, in order to get a good face to the walk. Not a foot should be placed upon the concrete until it is set quite hard. It may then be covered with a quarter of an inch in thickness of very finely-sifted gravel, which will have the appearance of a good gravel walk with the firmness of asphalte. The finishing coat must not be put on until the grass edgings are properly formed. If a smooth surface is desired, it may be formed by mixing fine gravel or coarse sand with Portland cement, and spreading the same on the surface of the concrete before it gets quite hard. - Gardeners' Magazine.