About the middle or end of May they are ready for their final shift. I find 9-inch pots the most suitable; a few of the strongest I put into 10-inch and the weakest into 8-inch, the latter being potted in June. The soil I use for this potting is light fibrous loam cut during the previous winter and stacked. I spread on each layer of loam a layer of fresh cow-dung and a sprinkling of bone-meal, using a barrowload of cow-dung to four of loam, and a 6-inch potful of bone-meal to a barrowload. Should the loam be heavy I would use fresh horse-droppings and a good sprinkling of wood ashes instead of cow-manure. This soil is chopped down and pulled to pieces, picking out worms, and with a 5-inch potful of soot to each barrowload, it is then ready for use. The pots must be carefully drained, using, if to be had, half-inch bones or broken oyster shells for the top layer. In this potting the soil should be made very firm, and space left for a liberal top-dressing. Put a stake to each plant, and if possible choose a place where they will get the full benefit of the sun, and be sheltered from the wind. Plunge the pots about three parts of the way up in ashes in rows 3 or 4 feet apart and 1 1/2 or 2 feet apart in the row, the greater distance being the best if room can be had.

In June the plants generally make their first breaks. Select the three or four strongest and rub out the rest. The shoots that are left should be allowed to grow unchecked, and in about eight or nine weeks after they will set their crown-bud, which, providing it does not come too early, will make the exhibition flower. Should it appear before the 12th of August pinch it out and rub out all the shoots except one - this will grow for three or four weeks, when another will set again. Buds that set late in August or very early in September come about right for exhibition.

Early in August top-dress the plants with equal parts of loam and horse-droppings prepared as for a mushroom bed with a liberal addition of soot, and repeat the dressing in about six weeks' time, and in a week or so afterwards commence feeding with liquid manure in a very weak state.

As soon as the buds are set, rub out the small shoots clustered around it, and keep those and all below it, rubbed out, so as to throw the strength of the plants into the bud, which, by the way, is usually insignificant looking at first. Gradually increase the frequency of the application of the manure-water, until it may be used at every other watering, but always using it weak. A good way to prepare manure-water is to put cow or sheep manure, or both, in a coarse sack with soot, and then put the sack into a tub or tank of water, and stir it about, renewing it every fortnight. This diluted state used alternately with house-sewage suits them well, until they show color freely, when it must be gradually discontinued, and when the blooms are about three-parts expanded it may be left off. It may be reckoned that it takes a full month from the time the color of the first petals is seen to finish a good solid flower. They should be taken indoors late in September, or early in October, out of danger from frost. An early peach-house or vinery suits them very well, as by that time nearly all the leaves are off the trees. Put them well up to the glass, allowing them as much room as possible with a free admission of air night and day, always guarding against frost and heavy fog.

During bright weather, when half or more open, the petals of some of the incurved are apt to reflex or turn back. When they do this the flowers should be shaded from the bright sun. - Gardeners' Chronicle.