This section is from the book "The Gardener's Monthly And Horticulturist V28", by Thomas Meehan. See also: Four-Season Harvest: Organic Vegetables from Your Home Garden All Year Long.
It is well to remember that the great bulk of garden fruits are natives of temperate climes, or of altitudes that have cool soil and climate. Hence, it is the long summers, dry atmosphere and overheated soil that enervate the constitutions of our fruit and lead varieties to " run out," as it is called, and not that there is any innate law that prescribes a fixed limit of years for the existence of a variety, as was believed about the beginning of the century. To be successful with our fruits, especially in the warmer States of our Union, it is essential that we study to keep the soil in summer as cool as possible, and that we plant the trees where they will be the least exposed to a hot, drying atmosphere. All our systems of culture must have an eye to these matters. Even summer pruning has to be considered from this stand-point. While the European teacher summer-prunes in order to let in the light and the air, we need not summer-prune for this reason. We have all the light and air we need.
We only summer-prune in order to prevent branches growing where they are not needed, or to throw the force of the sap into branches that need this additional strength.
Summer-pruning in this judicious way is a very important art to those garden lovers who wish to excel in fine fruits. It is also well to remember that letting in the light and air, by thinning out leaves, spoils the color of fruits as a general thing. The apple that ripens in sunshine, or at least in light, has a rosier or brighter tint than one that ripens in the shade of the branches; but this is not by the sacrifice of foliage. The absence of leaves in the shadier part of the tree has much to do - though not all - with the color of fruits. If we cut off the leaves of the exposed branches the apples will not color, no matter how much exposed. Indeed, the coloring of fruits is rather a vital, instead of a chemical process in which light is involved.
These facts are noted here because it is not uncommon to find people taking off the leaves of the grape in order that the sun may color the fruit. Grapes color better under the shade of good healthy foliage than when that foliage is removed.
In the vegetable garden it is of great importance to know the native country and native conditions of those we wish to grow. Those from temperate climates grow well only in spring and fall. They become diseased, usually by mildew, during our long, dry and warm summer days. Those fond of peas, fresh from the vine, may soon sow a few if an autumn crop is desirable.
The lettuce is another cool country plant. It can only be grown well in hot weather when in very rich and cool soil. For winter use, beets are occasionally sown now, and also cucumbers for pickling purposes; but not often; and, at any rate, it must be attended to early in the month. Tomatoes trained to stakes give the sweetest fruit, and remain in bearing the longest; but many cultivators, who grow for size and quantity only, believe they have the best results when growing them on the level ground. Celery is the chief crop requiring attention. The great point is to get short thick growing varieties, as the long kinds require so much more labor to blanch. There are now a number of new candidates, and people will try these varieties as they try new fruits. After so many trials with different ways of growing them, those who have their own gardens - amateurs, for whom we write - find that the old plan of sinking the plants in shallow pits is about the best. Trenches are dug about six inches deep, and three or four inches of manure then dug in, of which cow-manure is the best. They can be watered better this way in dry weather, when in these trenches, and it is so much easier to fill the earth about them for blanching purposes than when grown on the level surface.
Soap-suds, as well as salt in moderate doses, is usually a won" derful special fertilizer for the celery plant.
Late cabbage is often planted in gardens between rows of potatoes, where it is an object to save space. Some fancy that the cabbage is better preserved in this way from the cabbage-fly, which, they say, prefers the potato; but on this point we are not sure. We do not think the cabbage does quite as well as when it has the whole ground to itself; but of course a double crop could not be expected to be quite so fine.
 
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