Watch newly planted fruit trees. If they have but a few weak leaves only, it shows the roots have been injured; then prune them severely, which will make them grow freely. It should be a main object to make all transplanted trees not merely have leaves, but have new shoots at the earliest possible moment. If they are growing very well, they may be allowed to perfect a few fruits. Overbearing on a newly planted tree is, however, one of the best ways of making it stunted for years. Newly planted trees often suffer apparently for want of water, when really there is much moisture in the soil. This usually comes from the earth not having been packed in tightly about the roots at planting. Unless the roots actually touch the earth, they absorb moisture with difficulty. Hence a good plan in such cases is to pound the earth with a heavy rammer round the trees. After this practice it will be often noted that the earth looks quite damp in the morning, where it seemed hard and dry before. This is simply the pulverizing of the soil so much insisted on by gardeners of the old school.

Do not allow weeds or grass to grow rank about newly planted trees, as they take moisture which is all needed by the tree, while grass or sod kept low keeps the surface cool, and takes little moisture; rank growth though it may keep down temperature, drinks too much, and this is its objection. Stones around newly planted trees are excellent, provided we are sure no vermin are harbored by them. They keep cool and yet take no moisture away.

Strawberries, when grown in hills - the most laborious but most productive method of growing them - should have runners cut off as they grow, and the surface soil kept loose by shallow hoeings occasionally. Short litter, half rotten, as a mulch, is also beneficial. Lawn mowings are often applied, but with little benefit. Where they are grown in beds, they should not be too thick, as they starve one another, and the crop next year will be poor.

Blackberries are not always ripe when they are black. Leave them on till they part readily from their stalks.

Currants are so easily grown as to require few hints for their management. If they throw up many suckers, take out a portion now, instead of waiting till winter to cut them away. The currant borer is a great pest, eating out the pith of the young shoots, and causing them to grow poorly, and bear but small fruit next year. Gummy "fly paper" is, we think, the best thing to catch them.

In the vegetable garden the hints given last month may still be regarded as seasonable. With most people the chief anxiety is to have plenty of moisture in the ground. Except in small amateur gardens artificial waterings are seldom resorted to, except where some extra fine sample is desired. In these cases - a tomato for instance - a basin is made around the plant, water poured in, and a few hours after the earth drawn in over the basin. By having this loose earth over the watered part the moisture will not dry out as it generally does when poured on at the surface. Indeed, loose earth on the surface is one of the best means for keeping the soil from drying, and hence in the best gardens the hoe and the cultivator are kept at work quite as much with this object as to keep down the weeds.