The quantity of the so-called Dutch bulbs in pots, for house decoration, has been surprisingly small during the few past years, in comparison with what is grown in other parts of the world, though it is pleasant to note that it is on the increase. It is pleasant to note it, for there are few things in gardening that give so much pleasure at so small a cost. When we speak of Dutch bulbs, Hyacinths, Tulips and Crocuses are chiefly referred to; but there are numerous other bulbs besides those specially cultivated in Holland, that are quite as desirable as they. In our seasonable hints recently, we entered more fully into this matter; at the present time we revert to it in order to note that they require richer food when growing, than people usually believe. They grow in water, it is true, where there is no food; but in this case, they have to feed chiefly on the food stored up the year before, and are completely exhausted by the time the flowering is done. This is one reason why a Hyacinth that has flowered in water, requires several years of growth in the open ground in order to recuperate; and even then does not do so fully, unless prevented from flowering for several years.

When grown in pots, the earth cannot be too highly enriched, we think, though some people think manuring may be overdone. In this connection, the following extract from a letter from Holland, conveys some useful hints:

"To be scary of manure is not the practice of Holland. Sand and manure - manure and sand, are the alpha and omega of all things. It should be said, that, of course, the manure is in a very decomposed state; but a Dutchman relies on it implicitly, and the fields are enriched not only in the first instance, when they are recovered from some barren waste, but again and again, so that fertility may not be impaired. A bulb, it is true, does not like to lie in manure - it should be cushioned in sand, and the roots should push downwards into the rich provision from which they get vigor and life. This tends also to keep them from being ever burnt up in the summer. It is when the rootlets have nothing proper to feed upon, that they come too much to the surface, and they cannot then stand the burning rays of the sun.

"An emphasis should be put on the thorough decomposition of the manure, but it cannot be bad practice to use it in this way, when such good results flow from it. Not to speak of Tulips and Hyacinths, I saw fields and fields of Lilies, which were perfectly innocent of shade, and yet doing quite well after this fashion".

There has been much dispute, of late years, as to what produces disease in Carnations and Roses, of which so many complain. That there is fungus in connection with the disease is certain; but the question is yet regarded by many as unsettled; whether the funguses are there as the guests of the disease, or whether they are established in housekeeping on their own account. No one who has seen fungus sweep through a cutting bench, can hesitate for a moment in his belief, that the fungus caused the death of the cuttings. Had fungus not got a hold there, the cuttings would have lived. Still, a cutting for want of roots, has a low vital power, and this low vital power may have invited the enemy. A plant with healthy roots would have resisted the fungus successfully. The lesson from this is, that if we would keep our plants from fungus diseases, we must study the laws of health as they affect vegetation, and practice good culture. Of late years, it is surprising how the laws of plant life are ignored by florists, especially in the single item of watering. Day in and day out, watering or syringing goes on, whether plants need it or not. A plant should never have water when it does not want it; and excellent drainage should be applied to carry water rapidly away.

Roots want air as well as water, and the soil should be somewhat open, in order to permit air to circulate through it. When the earth does not dry rapidly, something is wrong. It is no uncommon sight to see benches of Roses, Carnations and other things completely sodden, and the plants then die from root fungus. They do not always get root fungus in wet soil, any more than a badly-managed cutting bench always gets into trouble from the same cause. But one thing is certain, that where the soil is sour or sodden, root fungus prevails to a greater extent than elsewhere; and when the roots are injured, other fungi play havoc with stems, leaves and flowers. When fungus does appear, sulphur exposed to the hot sun, or a temperature equal to a hot sun's ray, is among the best remedies.

In the remarks so far, we have had in view the culture of flowers in benches, as practiced in florists' greenhouses, or in amateur greenhouses where flowers are needed on a large scale. We may as well condense for the smaller grower what we shall have to say of potting generally. In taking up things from the ground for potting, care should be taken to have the pots well-drained, with pieces of potsherds over the hole. The more rapidly water passes through the soil, the better plants will grow. Pots could be made without holes, and the water would all go through the porous sides in time; but that is too slow a way, so we make a hole to admit of its more rapid escape, and we place the broken pots over the hole to make a vacuum, which assists the objects of the hole. In very small pots, or with plants which have strong enough roots to rapidly absorb all the moisture they get, and speedily ask for more, " crocking " is not necessary.