A very suggestive article in our last was that on strawberries. But it was written by an amateur for amateurs, and would scarcely be "payable" for market growers. They prefer as a general thing to plant in spring, give one year to culture and growth, and have the fruit crop the next year. Still, the number who plant in fall is large, and is increasing since the wide-spread method of growing the runners for a little while in pots was introduced. The pots are filled with rich earth, sunk in the ground around the mother plants, and in a few weeks have a little ball by which they can be transplanted without the slightest check, though shipped hundreds of miles. Almost a full crop can be had in this way the following season; though, probably the growers could not afford to sell them at the price per quart good fruit could be bought for in market.

There are, however, many cases where pot rooted runners cannot be had, and the old method must be resorted to. But there is a right way and a wrong way even in this. The following among the right ways would be regarded as a very good way:

After a piece of ground is dug at this season for strawberries, roll it well with the garden roller. When ready to plant make holes with a dibble, fill the holes with water, and when it soaks away, put your plant which has been kept in water to prevent wilting. But, in putting in the plant do not plant too deep. "Too deep" kills ninety-nine hundredths of all the strawberries that die in the year from transplanting. "Too deep" is when anything but the small fibres are buried under the surface.

In the story books we sometimes see pretty pictures showing how strawberry roots are to be " spread all around nice." A little cone is made in the middle, the plant set on the apex, and the roots running like mountain streams down the cone on every side. This is a very pretty plan, but will give us no more strawberries. There is little romance in a strawberry fibre. They push out, pump water into the plant for a few months and then die. No strawberry root lasts twelve months. New ones push and old ones die daily.

All things considered, for an amateur garden the best plan is to set the plants in line six inches apart, the rows eighteen inches apart, and every fourth row omitted, as it were, to form an alleyway between the beds; on this plan, as the plants grow, they can either have their runners cut off, or they may be allowed to go together in bed form, according to the kinds grown or views of the grower.

Even where pot grown runners are employed care must be taken not to have the crown below the surface of the earth.

The grape-vine at this season will require attention to see that the leaves are all retained healthy till thoroughly ripened. It is not a sign of healthiness for a vine to grow late; on the contrary, such late growth generally gets killed in the winter - but the leaves should all stay on to insure the greatest health of the vine until the frost comes, when they should all be so mature as to fall together. Frequent heavy syringings are amongst the best ways to keep off insects from out door grapes, and so protect the foliage from their ravages.

This cannot, of course, be done on a large scale, and where fruit must be produced at a certain low figure or not at all. For, all plans for drawing liquids for syringing purposes, necessarily involve heavy hauling and expenditure. So far as we know there has been no cheap method introduced for the destruction of such injurious insects as the grape-vine leaf hopper.

In the East this season the lant caterpillar has been very destructive - much more so than usual. Trees have been stripped of foliage as completely as if attacked by the canker-worm. There is little excuse for this damage, as in many cases the branches could have been cut off and burned before much damage was done, and branches out of reach been aided by a torch on a long pole.

As soon as your vegetable crops are past kitchen use, clear them out. Never suffer them to seed. In the first place, a seed crop exhausts the soil more than two crops taken off in an eatable condition; in the next place, the refuse of the kitchen is likely to produce degenerate stocks. Good seed saving is a special art by itself, always claiming the earliest and best to insure a perfect stock.'

Celery will require earthing up as it grows to get it to blanch well. It is not well, however, to commence too early, as earthing up tends, in a slight degree, to weaken the growth of the plants. Take care, also, not to let the soil get into the heart in earthing, or the crown is apt to rot.

As fast as endive is desired for salad it should be blanched. Matting thrown over is the best for this purpose, as the plants are not so liable to rot as when pots or boards are employed.

In cold or mountainous regions melons are hastened in the ripening process, and improved in flavor, by a piece of tile being placed under the fruit.

Keep weeds from your compost heaps, as they exhaust the soil, and bear seeds for future brow-sweatings.

Sow lettuce for fall crop thinly, and in deep and very rich ground.

Early Valentine beans may still be sown early in the month - the soil for a late crop should be well trenched, or, if the fall be dry, they will be stringy and tough.

Cucumbers, squash, and other similar plants, often suffer from drought at this season. Cold water does not help them much, but a mulching of half-rotten leaves strengthens them considerably.

Cut down straggling herbs, and they will make new heads for next season.

Towards the end of the month, a sowing of spinach may be made in rich soil, which will come in for use before winter. That desired for winter and early spring use is usually sown in September in this region. A few turnips may also be sown for an early crop, but will be hot and stringy unless the soil is very rich.

Corn salad is often sown at the end of this month. It does not do so well in damp soil or low situation.