The paramount question with the fruit gardener is the destruction of insects. We have to confess to a belief that all schemes for their wholesale destruction have proved failures, and that our best hope is in their individual destruction. The different kinds of moths and flies may be entrapped by the thousand, in a persevering employment of wide mouthed bottles of sweet liquids hung about the trees. The curculio, whose most tempting allurements do not lie like moths in the way of sweet food, but in finding a nice juicy nidus for the deposit of eggs wherewith to perpetuate its species, can be slain by the hundred, by perseverance in the shaking process. A snag, made by sawing off a small branch a few inches from the main trunk of the tree, should be secured on each, on the point of which to hammer, or otherwise the bark of the tree would be irreparably injured. With a sheet spread under the tree, and a sharp, quick jar with the hammer, all the pests then on the tree may be secured and destroyed. They are rather lazily inclined, but still a few will come from your neighbor's trees; but a few jarrings occasionally will keep them down.

Experience has shown that this course, which only demands a little labor, is much more effectual than the thousand schemes that have been devised for hanging various charms about the branches, and then kneeling down and crying on Hercules for assistance.

Watch newly planted fruit trees. If they have but a few weak leaves only, it shows the roots have been injured; then prune them severely, which will make them grow freely. It should be a main object to make all transplanted trees not merely have leaves, but have new shoots at the earliest possible moment. If they are growing very well, they may be allowed to perfect a few fruit. Overbearing on a newly planted tree is, however, one of the best ways of making it stunted for years.

Handsome forms are as desirable in fruit as in ornamental trees. No winter pruning will do this exclusively. It may furnish the skeleton, - but it is Summer pinching which clothes the bones with beauty. A strong shoot soon draws all its nutriment to itself. Never allow one shoot to grow that wants to be bigger than others. Equality must be insisted on. Pinch out always as soon as they appear, such as would push too strongly ahead, - and keep doing so till the new buds seem no stronger than the others. Thus the food gets equally distributed.

Where water can be commanded, there is nothing so profitable as to well soak the soil about small fruits; first about the time that they have set their fruit. Much of the value of this operation, however, will depend on the nature of the soil. The advantages are least in a tenacious, and greatest in porous soil. It is said that an animal derives most benefit from food when it is hungry before it begins to eat; it is certainly so with plants. Water applied to soil already wet is an injury; and water never has so telling an advantage on vegetation as when every leaf is about to wither up for the want of it. A plant that never seems to want water is in a very doubtful condition in regard to its health.

In the vegetable garden the asparagus beetle is growing every year more troublesome. We know of nothing better than poisoning the larvae, - but this is so dangerous in the vegetable garden that the work should be entrusted to none but extra careful hands. "It is said" that slightly salt water will kill the cabbage worm without much injury to the cabbage. Perhaps something of this kind may be useful against the asparagus pest.

In the cultivation of garden crops, the hoe and rake should be continually at work. Weeds should be taken in hand before they are barely out of the seed-leaf, and one-half the usual labor of vegetable gardening will be avoided. Hoeing or earthing up of most garden crops is of immense advantage in nearly every case. One would suppose that in our hot climate, flat culture would be much more beneficial; but a fair trial, say on every other row of a bed of cabbages, will show a great difference in favor of the earthed-up plants. It would be easy to explain the reason of this, but in this column we try to confine ourselves to "hints," and leave reasons to our other departments.

In sowing seeds, it is well to remember that though the soil should be deep and finely pulverized, a loose condition is unfavorable to good growth. After the seeds are sown, a heavy rolling would be a great advantage. The farmer knows this and we have often wondered that the practice never extended to garden work.