The hole should be deep and large enough to admit the roots. In some cases, where the plants are older and the roots of some size, the pot should be partly filled with dirt, the plant held as before, and the dirt gradually filled in around and between the roots with the right hand. If there should be more plants than are wanted for present use, they can be disposed of by placing three in a pot, but close to the sides instead of the middle; they can then be readily separated if subsequently used. As soon as pricked out, the plants should be well watered, and the pots set in the shade for a few days, or till the plants begin to grow. The watering must be carefully attended to, always giving enough water to go through the pot. A succession of bloom may be obtained by sowing seed at intervals, or by bringing forward a few pots at a time; but all the plants before named, when once in bloom, will remain so for a long time. Seed may be sown during the month of August, and even September will not be too late; Alyssum and Mignonnette may be sown at intervals during the month for late bloom.

The plants should be left out of doors until there is danger of frost, when they should be placed in a light and airy part of the greenhouse.

Having the young plants established in small pots, our object is to keep them growing uninterruptedly to the time of flowering, by which means we obtain large, well-formed, and vigorous plants. As soon as the small pots have become filled with roots, which may generally be known by the latter running through the hole in the bottom of the pot, the plants should be repotted; and at this point some variations will take place in the treatment Schizanthus, Clarkea, Mathiola, Senecio, Ageratum, and Whitlavia, should be shifted into four-inch pots; so, also, should a part of Collinsia, Rhodanthe, Acroclinium, Nemophila, and Lobelia; and another portion of these latter may be put in seven-inch pots, three plants in each, where they are to remain and bloom. Alyssum, Mignonnette, and Iberis may be shifted into five or six-inch pots, with from three to six plants in each. The "shifting" is done as follows: place the left hand over the top of the pot with the plant between the first and second finger; take hold of the pot with the right hand, invert the pot, and knock the rim gently on the edge of the table; the ball of earth will come out entire, being held together by the roots; but it must nevertheless be handled very carefully. A little practice will make the operation comparatively easy.

Cover the hole in the bottom of the large pot as before directed, and put in a layer of small pieces of charcoal, pebbles, or potsherds for drainage; then put in some earth and shake it down; there should be just as much earth in the bottom as will be necessary, when the ball is placed in it, to bring the top of the latter within about half, an inch of the top of the pot; the vacant space around the ball is then to be filled in, and the earth pressed down with a moderate degree of firmness, but not packed. Shading will not be necessary after this repotting. The soil for the Rhodanthe, Acroclinium, Lobelia, and Mignonnette should have an additional quantity of sand added to it.

The after treatment will be somewhat as follows: Watering must be attended to, and the plants never allowed to wilt for want of water, or the; foliage will turn brown and drop off. Acroclinium will need frequent and abundant supplies of water when in bloom: make it a rule, when watering, to give enough to go entirely through the pot; on this, success in no small measure depends. The plants must not be crowded together; they must have room enough for the growth of their laterals, and be staked and tied as growth progresses. The earth on the surface must be occasionally stir-red, and the pots kept clean by washing if necessary. An occasional watering with lime water will destroy worms and insects in the soil, and benefit the plants; and manure water applied sparingly will also be beneficial, but we do not recommend guano. A few of the plants may be left in the four-inch pots for early bloom; but the principal part of them should be shifted into six or seven-inch pots before they become pot bound; this is necessary to secure large and handsome plants. If they become pot bound, the growth will be checked, and the plants break into bloom too soon.

Lobelia gracilis is a trailing plant, and should be allowed to hang over the sides of the pot, and the pot hung up; and that is also a good way of growing the Nemoph-ila. Lobelia ramosa may be tied to a small stake. Alyssum, when grown singly, should be tied up; otherwise not; and so of Mignonnette. All the others should be staked. Collinsia bicolor, when well grown, is a splendid winter-blooming plant, the most beautiful, in our estimation, of all those we have named. But our article has reached such a length that we must stop for the present.

We make no apology for the above details. We are constantly in receipt of letters which convince us that just such details arc what a large number of our readers need, and it is our duty to furnish them; even some "old hands" may not find them altogether uninteresting. We can not forget that there was a time when details like these possessed more interest for us than the pages of a highly wrought romance. Let us " not despise the day of small things".